KindofStephen https://kindofstephen.com A cosmetic chemist's blog on the latest skin care and cosmetic research, ingredients, and beauty news Tue, 13 Nov 2018 13:54:16 +0000 en-CA hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.9.8 https://i1.wp.com/kindofstephen.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/cropped-profile-2.jpg?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 KindofStephen https://kindofstephen.com 32 32 114122149 #BeautyRecap: November 13th, 2018 https://kindofstephen.com/beautyrecap-november-13th-2018/ Tue, 13 Nov 2018 13:54:16 +0000 https://kindofstephen.com/?p=3134 Products and Reviews Lush Cosmetics teams up with RuPaul’s Drag Race queens for its Merry DRAGmas campaign HelloGiggles.com A review of the Kopari Coconut deodorant during a marathon Elle.com Kylie Cosmetics to launch in Ulta, in time for the holidays Allure.com Artis is launching customized makeup brushes in their Bespoke range Elle.com MAC and Patrick […]

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Products and Reviews

Lush Cosmetics teams up with RuPaul’s Drag Race queens for its Merry DRAGmas campaign
HelloGiggles.com

A review of the Kopari Coconut deodorant during a marathon
Elle.com

Kylie Cosmetics to launch in Ulta, in time for the holidays
Allure.com

Artis is launching customized makeup brushes in their Bespoke range
Elle.com

MAC and Patrick Starr to launch a holiday makeup collaboration
Allure.com

Dr Almas Ahmed hopes to develop Acarrier, a cosmetic additive to help prevent acid attacks
INews.co.uk

A review of the Bumble and Bumble BB Glitter finishing spray
TeenVogue.com

A look at the Too Faced Gingerbread Spice eyeshadow palette on different skintones
TeenVogue.com

A review of VDL Cosmetics’ Metal Cushion Primer
Refinery29.com

A look at the MAKE Marine Salves blushes
NewBeauty.com

Kylie Cosmetics created a custom lip kit for Travis Scott’s Astroworld tour
TeenVogue.com

Dollar Shave Club dabbles in fine fragrance with men’s fragrance Blueprint and vending machines
AdAge.com

Sheer lipsticks and lip balms recommended by Teen Vogue
TeenVogue.com

Makeup artists recommend their favourite setting sprays
Elle.com

10 acne products recommended by Teen Vogue
TeenVogue.com

Vogue Australia’s beauty tips for the summer
Vogue.com.au

16 products recommended by SHEN Beauty’s Jessica Richards
NewBeauty.com

Retailers, Brands, and Trends

US FDA requests comments on new consumer survey about allergens in cosmetics
FDA.gov

“For skincare brands, urban pollution is good for business”
QZ.com

Cannabis being used in makeup products is on the rise
Independent.co.uk

Coty announces new CEO, Pierre Laubies, and shifts corporate focus to financials
Coty.com

Garnier goes organic in L’Oreal’s bid to lift mass market sales
Reuters.com

Canada’s Cake Beauty to launch in the US at Rite Aid
PRNewswire.com

Revlon jumps as investors embrace beauty giant’s slim-down plans
BloombergQuint.com

Glossier launches two-story New York flagship retail space
Forbes.com

South Korean brand Cremorlab launches in Poland
YonhapNews.co.kr

Shiseido to form a Philippine unit with Singapore’s Luxasia
ABS-CBN.com

Drew Barrymore’s Flower Beauty is coming to Australia in January 2019
Vogue.com.au

“Why US FDA approval of cosmetics may not be necessary”
DermatologyTimes.com

Health Canada links cosmetics colourant solvent Violet 13 exposure to possible cancer risk
ChemicalWatch.com, Canada.ca, EC.GC.ca, Gazette.GC.ca, ECHA.Europa.eu

EU publishes revised guidance on cosmetic ingredients testing
ChemicalWatch.com, EC.Europa.eu

Skincare and Beauty

“Why vanity and selfie stigma is stupid”
Allure.com

“How I learned to embrace aging through mirror meditation”
Allure.com

Why inclusivity in the drugstore makeup aisle is important
Allure.com

A look at semi-permanent BB cream and whether its safe or recommended
Allure.com

Charlotte Tilbury shares the makeup she used during this year’s Victoria’s Secret Show
TeenVogue.com, Elle.com

11 Victoria’s Secret models share where they get the best facials
Elle.com

A look at newer skincare treatments geared specifically to people of colour
MarieClaire.com

Nam Vo gives tips on applying setting powder with a small brush
Allure.com

Three celebrity makeup artists give tips on building a makeup kit
Elle.com

Blush application tips from makeup artists
Allure.com

A look at witch hazel’s use in skincare
Elle.com

Endo announces positive results from trials of its cellulite-reducing injection
NewBeauty.com

New psoriasis drug, Bryhali, approved by the US FDA
Allure.com

A look at tranexamic acid, an ingredient for treating hyperpigmentation
Vogue.com

Dermatologists recommend treatments for post-summer hyperpigmentation
NewBeauty.com

Celebrities and Interviews

Victoria’s Secret executive Ed Razek talks about why their shows are not more inclusive
Vogue.com

An interview with Tiffany Young about beauty and K-Pop
Allure.com

Real Housewives of New Jersey star Teresa Giudice’s beauty Routine costs $22,077
Glamour.com

Research and Technology

Effect of platelet-rich plasma injection for rejuvenation of photoaged facial skin
JAMA Dermatology

Platelet-rich plasma with microneedling and trichloroacetic acid peel for treatment of striae distensae
JAAD

Photodynamic inactivation of bacteria to decolonize meticillin‐resistant Staphylococcus aureus from human skin
BJD

Short contact with nickel causes allergic contact dermatitis
BJD

Quantitative sensory testing in patients with sensitive skin
BJD

An evaluation of the effects of makeup on perceived age based on skin color in Korean women
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Raman characterization of human skin aging
Skin Research and Technology

Effect of spraying of fine water particles on facial skin moisture and viscoelasticity in adult women
Skin Research and Technology

Cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic lamellar cream formulation on barrier function or the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in randomised proof‐of‐concept clinical studies
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Reduction in human hair graying by sterubin, an active flavonoid of Eriodictyon angustifolium
Journal of Dermatological Science

Lentigines formation in Caucasian women – interaction between particulate matter and solar ultraviolet radiation
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

The calcium-sensing receptor regulates epidermal intracellular Ca2+ signaling and re-epithelialization after wounding
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Use of lasers in wound healing: How to best utilize laser technology to prevent scar formation
Current Dermatology Reports

The increase of interfollicular epidermal stem cells and regulation of aryl hydrocarbon receptor and its repressors in the skin through hydroporation with anti-aging cocktail
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Efficacy of platelet‐rich plasma in androgenetic alopecia patients
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

ZnO:SBA-15 nanocomposites for potential use in sunscreen: Preparation, properties, human skin penetration and toxicity
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology

In vivo human skin penetration of the UV filter ethylhexyl triazone: Effect of lipid microparticle encapsulation
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology

Allergic contact dermatitis to hydroperoxides of limonene and dose‐response relationship – a repeated open application test (ROAT) study
Contact Dermatitis

Pulsed‐dye laser as a novel therapeutic approach for post‐filler bruises
Dermatologic Therapy

Mitochondrial dysfunction in affected skin and increased mitochondrial DNA in serum from patients with psoriasis
Experimental Dermatology

Detection of fluid secretion of three‐dimensional reconstructed eccrine sweat glands by magnetic resonance imaging
Experimental Dermatology

Tabernaemontana catharinensis leaves effectively reduce the irritant contact dermatitis by glucocorticoid receptor-dependent pathway in mice
Biomedicine and Pharmacotherapy

P66: a small molecule therapeutic against atopic dermatitis and UV‐induced skin cancer
Internal Medicine Journal

Evaluation of the phytochemical composition, antimicrobial and anti-radical activities of Mitracarpus scaber (Rubiaceae)
Journal of Medicinal Plants Research

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#BeautyRecap: November 7th, 2018 https://kindofstephen.com/beautyrecap-november-7th-2018/ Wed, 07 Nov 2018 17:15:46 +0000 https://kindofstephen.com/?p=3126 Products and Reviews A review of the Pat McGrath Labs Precision Liner, through a marathon Elle.com A look at Chrom Tooth Polish which temporarily tints the teeth Allure.com Spectrum Collections announces “Snow White” inspired makeup collection TeenVogue.com A look at Fenty Beauty’s Uninvited Stunna Lip Paint on different skin tones TeenVogue.com Glamour recommends low-waste and […]

"#BeautyRecap: November 7th, 2018" on KindofStephen.

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Products and Reviews

A review of the Pat McGrath Labs Precision Liner, through a marathon
Elle.com

A look at Chrom Tooth Polish which temporarily tints the teeth
Allure.com

Spectrum Collections announces “Snow White” inspired makeup collection
TeenVogue.com

A look at Fenty Beauty’s Uninvited Stunna Lip Paint on different skin tones
TeenVogue.com

Glamour recommends low-waste and more sustainable beauty products
Glamour.com

Glamour reviews and recommends makeup blending sponges
Glamour.com

Elle recommends exfoliants with glycolic acid
Elle.com

A look at new skincare products launching in November by Allure
Allure.com

Allure recommends their choices for best cleansing oils
Allure.com

Milk Makeup collaborates with Wu-Tang Clan on lipsticks
TeenVogue.com

Retailers and Trends

Covergirl receives Leaping Bunny cruelty-free certification
Elle.com

International Gymnastics Federation bans “heavy makeup” for athlettes
Allure.com, Glamour.com

Results of the AARP survey on women, media, and aging
AARP.org

Skincare and Beauty

Palau bans certain types of sunscreen, citing harm to coral reefs
NYTimes.com

Restylane Lyft receives US FDA approval for use in midface and cheeks
NewBeauty.com

Felicia Leatherwood shares advice on styling natural hair
Elle.com

Dermatologists share advice on aging lips
HarpersBazaar.com

A look at the Fraxel laser
Elle.com

Skincare tips for people with beards
Allure.com

Celebrities and Interviews

Charlize Theron shares her skincare and beauty routine
HarpersBazaar.com

K-pop group Astro share their beauty tips
Allure.com

A look at Rosie Huntington-Whiteley’s BareMinerals masterclass
Allure.com

Chris Appleton shares his skincare routine
HarpersBazaar.com

An interview with Paris Hilton about her new fragrance
Elle.com

Sean “Diddy” Combs shares his birthday beauty routine
Vogue.com

Research and Technology

TEWL reference values in healthy adults
BJD

Basis of melanin distribution in the human skin epidermis
BJD

Game changer: Oral tranexamic acid (TA) in the treatment of melasma: A retrospective analysis
JAAD

Analysis of sulfated glycosaminoglycan composition change in intrinsically aged and photoaged human skin using an enzymatic degradation method
Journal of Dermatological Science

Aging in skin of color: Disruption to elastic fiber organization is detrimental to skin’s biomechanical function
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Topical urea in skincare: A review
Dermatologic Therapy

Appearance of aging signs in differently pigmented facial skin by a novel imaging system
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Differin and depilation, a word of warning
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Combinatorial application of dissolving microneedle patch and cream for improvement of skin wrinkles, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Histochemical study of the distribution of epidermal melanoblasts and melanocytes in Asian human skin
Skin Research & Technology

Hydration and barrier properties of emulsions with the addition of keratin hydrolysate
Cosmetics

In vivo human skin penetration of the UV filter Ethylhexyl Triazone: Effect of lipid microparticle encapsulation
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology

Nickel deposition and penetration into the stratum corneum after short metallic nickel contact: An experimental study
Contact Dermatitis

A liposome-based formulation containing equol, dihomo‐γ‐linolenic acid (DGLA), and propionyl‐L‐carnitine to prevent and treat hair loss: a prospective investigation
Dermatologic Therapy

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#BeautyRecap: October 30th, 2018 https://kindofstephen.com/beautyrecap-october-30th-2018/ Tue, 30 Oct 2018 15:39:29 +0000 https://kindofstephen.com/?p=3118 Products and Reviews A look at Karrueche Tran and ColourPop’s Brown Sugar collaboration Allure.com A look at the Boots and Harry Potter makeup collection Bustle.com A look at Epara, a skincare brand made for and by people of color Fashionista.com Christina Hello shares new launches and brands in her South Korean beauty round-up ChristinaHello.com A […]

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Products and Reviews

A look at Karrueche Tran and ColourPop’s Brown Sugar collaboration
Allure.com

A look at the Boots and Harry Potter makeup collection
Bustle.com

A look at Epara, a skincare brand made for and by people of color
Fashionista.com

Christina Hello shares new launches and brands in her South Korean beauty round-up
ChristinaHello.com

A look at the Too Faced Pretty Rich Collection launching November 2018
Allure.com

Besame’s new mermaid collection is inspired by Disney’s ‘Peter Pan’
Allure.com, TeenVogue.com

Newborn Cream’s claim to fame is a recreation of baby vernix caseosa
Allure.com

Kylie Jenner releases a Kylie Cosmetics Lip Kit named after herself
TeenVogue.com

A review of the Danessa Myricks’ Dew Wet Balm
Glamour.com

Sarah Wu reviews the Rahua Legendary Amazon Oil hair conditioning treatment
Glamour.com

Kristina Rodulfo shares her favourite lipsticks
Elle.com

Leann Duggan tries a $400 USD 8-step beauty routine for her vulva
Glamour.com

Teen Vogue editors share their favourite skin cleansers
TeenVogue.com

Elle recommends 10 best foundation sticks
Elle.com

Dermatologists recommend their favourite acne spot treatments
TeenVogue.com

Allure shares their top water-resistant makeup picks
Allure.com

Allure shares their 7 best German skincare brands
Allure.com

A look at the biggest beauty innovations by Glamour
Glamour.com

9 best lip stains recommended by Elle
Elle.com

Elle lists the most sought-after beauty professionals in the industry
Elle.com

10 best skincare products with bakuchiol recommended by Allure
Allure.com

Retailers and Trends

Kylie Cosmetics sued by Sheree Cosmetics for allegedly copying packaging and trademarks
TheFashionLaw.com

Morphe to be carried at certain Sephora locations
Allure.com

UK cosmetics organization releases ‘fact sheet’ on the impact of Brexit
CTPA.org.uk

An interview with Fanny Fremont of the Responsible Mica Initiative about the impact of mica mining and child labour
CosmeticsDesign-Asia.com

Johnson & Johnson offers to buy-out Japanese cosmetic maker Ci:z Holdings
FoxBusiness.com

Indian group that targeted trucks with cosmetic products on highway caught and arrested
IndiaTimes.com

Skincare and Beauty

5 ways to recycle your makeup
TeenVogue.com

Michelle Wong looks at whether or not blue light from devices damages skin
LabMuffin.com

Michelle Wong looks at the effects of visible light on the skin
LabMuffin.com

How to tell if you’re overwashing your face
Allure.com

What you need to know about tattoo removal
TeenVogue.com

How much dry shampoo is too much?
Elle.com

How to use a green colour corrector as eyeshadow
Allure.com

Zoe Weiner shares her experience bathing in Colombia’s “Volcano of Youth”
Allure.com

Some South Korean women are destroying their makeup as a protest
Qz.com

Dermatologists are skeptical of creams that can treat under-eye hollows
NewBeauty.com

Kaleigh Fasanella meditated every day for a month for better skin
Allure.com

Celebrities and Interviews

Seoul men are interviewed about their beauty routines
VeryGoodLight.com

Kim Cattrall’s makeup artist Nick Barose shares his skincare and beauty tips
NewBeauty.com, Allure.com

An interview with Jorja Smith about her beauty and personal care routine
VanityFair.com

An interview with Nam Vo about her beauty routine
Elle.com

Why facialist Jennifer Brodeur changes up her client’s skincare every two weeks
Allure.com

Makeup artists share their tips for applying makeup to mature skin
Allure.com

Rihanna’s makeup artist Priscilla Ono shares her beauty tips
Elle.com, TeenVogue.com

Model Grace Elizabeth shares her beauty tips
ElleCanada.com

Kristin Davis shares her experience with CoolSculpting
NewBeauty.com

An interview with Peter Kraus of The Bachelorette about his skincare and beauty routine
Allure.com

An interview with David Beckham’s hairstylist Ken Paves
VeryGoodLight.com

Research and Technology

Effect of post-injection facial exercise on time of onset of botulinum toxin for glabella and forehead wrinkles: A randomized controlled, crossover clinical trial
JAAD

Sunscreen and facial skin care products in frontal fibrosing alopecia: a case-control study
BJD

The roles of sphingosine kinases in skin aging
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Chemoprotective effects of dietary grape powder on ultraviolet B radiation-mediated skin carcinogenesis in SKH-1 hairless mice
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Skin ecology during sebaceous drought – how skin microbes respond to isotretinoin
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Syringaresinol reverses age-related skin atrophy by suppressing FoxO3a-mediated MMP2 activation in SOD1-deficient mice
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Minimal erythema dose, minimal persistent pigment dose which model for whitening products evaluation is better?
Skin Research & Technology

Age‐related changes in lip morphological and physiological characteristics in Korean women
Skin Research & Technology

Comparison of ceramide retention in the stratum corneum between dry skin and normal skin using animal model with fluorescent imaging method
Skin Research & Technology

Biological stability of plasma rich in growth factors-derived autologous topical serum after three-months storage
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Treatment of moderate acne vulgaris in Fitzpatrick skin type V or VI: Efficacy and tolerability of fixed combination Clindamycin phosphate 1.2%/Benzoyl peroxide 3.75% gel
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Effect of an emollient on the mycobiome of atopic dermatitis patients
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Novel Tretinoin 0.05% lotion for the once-daily treatment of moderate-to-severe Acne vulgaris: Assessment of efficacy and safety in patients aged 9 years and older
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

The impact of sunlight on skin aging
Current Geriatrics Report

Wound healing with botanicals: A review and future perspectives
Current Dermatology Reports

Randomized controlled trial of the immediate and long-term effect of massage on adult postburn scar
Burns

Reduction of submental fat continues beyond 28 days after ATX-101 treatment: Results from a post hoc analysis
Dermatologic Surgery

Sustained benefit after treatment of Acne vulgaris using only a novel combination of long-pulsed and Q-switched 1064-nm Nd: YAG lasers
Dermatologic Surgery

Epidermal fluence threshold determination by real-time melanin measurements
Dermatologic Surgery

Efficacy and safety of a low-level light therapy for androgenetic alopecia: A 24-week, randomized, double-blind, self-comparison, sham device-controlled trial
Dermatologic Surgery

Microneedles for transdermal drug delivery: A systematic review
Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy

Regularities of free radical processes and involutional changes of face and neck skin in different age groups
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Evaluation of astaxanthin incorporated collagen film developed from the outer skin waste of squid Doryteuthis singhalensis for wound healing and tissue regenerative applications
Materials Science and Engineering: C

The healing effects of conditioned medium derived from mesenchymal stem cells on radiation-induced skin wounds in rats
Cell Transplant

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Paperview: Sunscreen application to the face persists beyond 2 hours in indoor workers https://kindofstephen.com/sunscreen-office-indoors/ Wed, 24 Oct 2018 12:50:54 +0000 https://kindofstephen.com/?p=3109 What happens to your sunscreen throughout a work day? I often get this question, especially from people who work inside for most of the day. A group of researchers at Mahidol University in Thailand did an experiment that may provide us with some guidance. The researchers took 20 people (15 women) with mostly skin phototype […]

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What happens to your sunscreen throughout a work day? I often get this question, especially from people who work inside for most of the day. A group of researchers at Mahidol University in Thailand did an experiment that may provide us with some guidance.

The researchers took 20 people (15 women) with mostly skin phototype III and up. Skin phototype III means that they tan, but sometimes get mild burns.

The participants were asked to apply 1 gram of sunscreen to their face. The sunscreen was mixed with a blue fluorescent dye that would glow under UV light. This glow allowed the researchers to see the sunscreen on the skin and note changes in its brightness throughout the day.

The people only wore the sunscreen and were asked not to reapply. They weren’t allowed to use makeup or other skincare. They were also allowed up to 1 hour outside. The temperature outside was between 23 and 35 degrees Celsius throughout the day and described as humid. The indoor condition was inside the air conditioned Siriraj Hospital.

Every 2 hours, the researchers took a photo of the people and measured the glow of the sunscreen under a UV light. They looked at the cheeks, forehead, nose, moustache area, and the chin. They used a Visia device to help make sure the photos were consistent.

Sunscreen brightness reduction every 2 hours by percent. The bars indicate the range in measurement values.

The researchers found that the fluorescent glow on the people’s faces decreased the most in the first 2 hours after applying the sunscreen. On average the areas of the face were 16.3% less bright.

Between 2 hours and 4 hours after application, the brightness decreased by a further 7.4 percentage points on average. Between 4 hours and 8 hours, there was an average 4.5 percentage point decrease in brightness.

At the end of the day, there was about a 30% decrease in brightness on average compared to just after applying the sunscreen.

A 30% decrease in brightness in this experiment doesn’t necessarily mean a 30% decrease in sunscreen on the skin. There are ways to model this more accurately, but they did not have the tools in this experiment.

So what does this mean for you? At the end of the day, you’ll still have to use your best judgement.

If you pigment easily, are very concerned about photoaging, or have a family history of skin cancer – I think the best recommendation is to be on the safe side and reapply at least once around 2 hours.

If don’t care that much, consider the opposite, about 70% of the glow from the sunscreen still remained after 8 hours.

In either case, that first application is important. I’d recommend choosing a sunscreen with a high SPF and UVA protection and aiming for a 2 mg/cm² layer. An easy way to make it more likely you’ve applied that amount is to apply your sunscreen in two layers.

Source: Rungananchai, C., Silpa-archa, N., Wongpraparut, C., Suiwongsa, B., Sangveraphunsiri, V., & Manuskiatti, W. (2018). Sunscreen Application to the Face Persists Beyond 2 Hours in Indoor Workers: An Open Label Trial. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 1–14. doi: 10.1080/09546634.2018.1530440

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#BeautyRecap: October 23rd, 2018 https://kindofstephen.com/beautyrecap-october-23rd-2018/ Tue, 23 Oct 2018 12:55:51 +0000 https://kindofstephen.com/?p=3100 Products and Reviews Fenty Beauty to launch new Fairy Bomb Shimmer Powders TeenVogue.com, Allure.com Weleda launches an entire collection under the Skin Food collection Allure.com KKW Beauty to launch Flashing Lights collection Allure.com A review of Charlotte Cho’s Then I Met You double cleansing set Allure.com Colourpop launches No Filter Foundation Stix in 30 shades […]

"#BeautyRecap: October 23rd, 2018" on KindofStephen.

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Products and Reviews

Fenty Beauty to launch new Fairy Bomb Shimmer Powders
TeenVogue.com, Allure.com

Weleda launches an entire collection under the Skin Food collection
Allure.com

KKW Beauty to launch Flashing Lights collection
Allure.com

A review of Charlotte Cho’s Then I Met You double cleansing set
Allure.com

Colourpop launches No Filter Foundation Stix in 30 shades
Allure.com

A review of the Make Up For Ever’s Pro Light Fusion highlighter
Glamour.com

Wet N’ Wild expanding shades of the Liquid Catsuit eyeshadow
Allure.com

A review of the LXMI moisturizer
Glamour.com

22 masks recommended by Allure editors
Allure.com

Retinol products recommended by Elle
Elle.com

Best dark spot correctors recommended by Elle
Elle.com

A review of the Erborian CC Cream
Glamour.com

A review of the Trader Joe’s SPA Face Wash with Tea Tree Oil
Elle.com

10 best mascaras for sensitive eyes recommended by Glamour
Glamour.com

10 best oil-blotting sheets recommended by Elle
Elle.com

21 tinted lip balms recommended by Allure
Allure.com

11 Korean-made skincare products recommended by Allure editors
Allure.com

Best eye creams recommended by NewBeauty
NewBeauty.com

20 best hyaluronic acid serums recommended by Allure
Allure.com

Elle editors try various DIY homemade masks
Elle.com

Sunscreens for Winter recommended by Vogue
Vogue.com

A look at Sephora’s Once Upon a Blockbuster Vault
Allure.com

Retailers and Trends

A look inside the Sephoria Beauty Festival
Glamour.com

Four advertisements for acne products banned for making medical claims
HuffingtonPost.co.uk

South Korean cosmetics firm Skinfood placed under court receivership
YonhapNews.co.kr

Unilever releases 3rd quarter results
Reuters.com

L’Oreal acquires Logocos Naturkosmetik AG
LOreal.com

How plastic surgeons and social media are fueling body image anxiety
SMH.com.au

A look at Sally Beauty as it faces increased competition
Forbes.com

Shiseido’s latest ad features an LGBT theme
AdWeek

Skincare and Beauty

Sunday Riley admits to asking employees to post fake product reviews
TeenVogue.com, Allure.com

The Home Edit shares organization tips for your skincare and beauty products
Elle.com

Everything you need to know about laser hair removal
Elle.com

Sun Potion’s Nitsa Citrine talks about “adaptogens”
WMagazine.com

Dermatologists talk about the effects blue light may have on the skin
Allure.com

Meirav Devash of Allure tries a sustainable beauty routine for a month
Allure.com

A look at cactus water and its use in skincare and beauty
Elle.com

Aesthetician Marta Camkiran’s recommendations to treat in-grown hairs
Elle.com

Celebrities and Interviews

An interview with Miss Fame about their new beauty line
Allure.com

Letitia Wright shares her favourite makeup
TeenVogue.com

Hayley Kiyoko shares her skincare and beauty routine
TeenVogue.com

Candice Swanepoel shows her skincare and beauty routine
Vogue.com, Allure.com

Kiernan Shipka shares her skincare and beauty routine
TeenVogue.com

7 motorcyclists share their skincare and beauty routines
Glamour.com

A look at Elizabeth De La Piedra’s $4500 USD beauty routine
Glamour.com

Research and Technology

Association of caffeine intake and caffeinated coffee consumption with risk of incident rosacea in women
JAMA Dermatology

Lack of evidence for feminization of males exposed to spironolactone in utero: a systematic review
JAAD

Acne: a side‐effect of masculinizing hormonal therapy in transgender patients
BJD

Skin type differences in solar‐simulated radiation‐induced oxidative stress
BJD

Can antibiotics be harmful in atopic dermatitis?
BJD

Variation in daily ultraviolet radiation exposure and sun protection behaviours of melanoma survivors: an observational single‐arm pilot study with a wearable sensor
BJD

Prescribing isotretinoin for transgender youth: A pledge for more inclusive care
Pediatric Dermatology

Rheology of hyaluronic acid and dynamic facial rejuvenation: Topographical specificities
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Moisturizers versus current and next-generation barrier repair therapy for the management of atopic dermatitis
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology

Mapping, in vivo, the uniformity of two skin properties alongside the human face by a 3D virtual approach
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Visualization of zinc pyrithione particles deposited on the scalp from a shampoo by tape‐strip sampling and scanning electron microscopy/energy dispersive X‐ray spectroscopy measurement
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Water adsorption with relative humidity changes for keratin and collagen as studied by infrared (IR) micro‐spectroscopy
Skin Research & Technology

Micro‐relief analysis with skin capacitive imaging
Skin Research & Technology

Antimicrobial peptides activity in the skin
Skin Research & Technology

Effect of physical and chemical hair removal methods on skin barrier function in vitro: Consequences for a hydrophilic model permeant
Skin Research & Technology

Niacinamide and 12‐hydroxystearic acid prevented benzo(a)pyrene and squalene peroxides induced hyperpigmentation in skin equivalent
Experimental Dermatology

The emerging role of skin microbiome in atopic dermatitis and its clinical implication
Journal of Dermatological Treatment

Pretarsal roll augmentation with dermal hyaluronic acid filler injection
European Journal of Plastic Surgery

Proposed global drooping and wrinkles classification and scoring system for aging face with validation and experience on 54 Indian subjects
IJDVL

A case of yellow chromonychia and yellow skin induced by topical ascorbic acid
Australasian Journal of Dermatology

Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Potential protective effects of rhEGF against ultraviolet A irradiation-induced damages on human fibroblasts
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

"#BeautyRecap: October 23rd, 2018" on KindofStephen.

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#BeautyRecap: October 16th, 2018 https://kindofstephen.com/beautyrecap-october-16th-2018/ Tue, 16 Oct 2018 11:57:33 +0000 https://kindofstephen.com/?p=3088 Products and Reviews Target’s Smartly offers personal care products under $2 USD Allure.com, TeenVogue.com A look at Pat McGrath Labs’ upcoming holiday collection Allure.com A review of Elta MD’s UV Replenish Broad-Spectrum SPF 44 Allure.com Anastasia Beverly Hills to increase prices of their palettes Allure.com A review of the Fixy Makeup Repair Kit Allure.com A […]

"#BeautyRecap: October 16th, 2018" on KindofStephen.

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Products and Reviews

Target’s Smartly offers personal care products under $2 USD
Allure.com, TeenVogue.com

A look at Pat McGrath Labs’ upcoming holiday collection
Allure.com

A review of Elta MD’s UV Replenish Broad-Spectrum SPF 44
Allure.com

Anastasia Beverly Hills to increase prices of their palettes
Allure.com

A review of the Fixy Makeup Repair Kit
Allure.com

A look at the BTS and VT Cosmetics collaboration
TeenVogue.com

Revolution Beauty launches its ‘Blood of My Enemies’ highlighter
TeenVogue.com

SPKTRM Beauty launches with unretouched and inclusive beauty campaign
TeenVogue.com

A review of the Dyson Airwrap hair styler
Glamour.com

Dove becomes certified as cruelty-free by PETA
Glamour.com

Review of the House of 99 Sharp Cut Shaving Stick
TeenVogue.com

Leave-in conditioners recommended by natural hair beauty bloggers
Glamour.com

Starbucks and SkinnyDip London collaborate on Pumpkin Spice Latte nail decals
TeenVogue.com

15 pore-minimizing products recommended by Teen Vogue
TeenVogue.com

11 pumpkin skincare products recommended by Allure
Allure.com

Teen Vogue editors pick their favourite foundations
TeenVogue.com

Vogue recommends moisturizers for the Fall to Winter transition
Vogue.com

Retailers and Trends

Unilever announces support for global ban on animal-tested cosmetics
TeenVogue.com, Allure.com

Herbal Essences plans to make its packaging more accessible for those with low to no vision
TeenVogue.com

Skincare and Beauty

Inspired by Princess Eugenie, women share stories of their surgical scars
Glamour.com

Dermatologists weigh in on whether or not smiling causes wrinkles
Allure.com

Dermatologists weigh in on whether or not you should use separate towels for your face and body
Allure.com

Four women of different hair types share their beauty routines
Elle.com

14 skincare tips that transformed their skin from different Glamour editors
Glamour.com

10 cornrow hairstyle ideas from GuinGui
Elle.com

A look at which cosmetic procedures are trending by US state
Glamour.com

The best hair, makeup, and skincare trends for Fall selected by Elle
Elle.com

People of different ages share how they wear glitter
Allure.com

Woman’s breast implant becomes infected with salmonella
Allure.com

Celebrities and Interviews

Chrissy Teigen talks about her new collaboration with Becca Cosmetics
Allure.com

Makeup artist Sarah Tanno and hair stylist Frederic Aspiras share their routine for Lady Gaga in ‘A Star is Born’
Elle.com

Troye Sivan shares his beauty routine
Vogue.com

Are Kylie Jenner’s lip fillers back?
WMagazine.com, Glamour.com, TeenVogue.com

Jeffree Star responds to claims of cultural appropriation for wearing cornrows
TeenVogue.com

Research and Technology

Myths, truths, and clinical relevance of comedogenicity product labeling
JAMA

Increasing minority representation in the dermatology department
JAMA

Self-reported patient motivations for seeking cosmetic procedures
JAMA

Sunscreen applied at 2mg/cm2 during a sunny holiday prevents erythema; a biomarker of UVR‐induced DNA damage and suppression of acquired immunity
BJD

Androgens in women: Androgen mediated skin disease and patient evaluation (Part I)
JAAD

Androgens in women: Hormone modulating therapies for skin disease (Part II)
JAAD

Transforming acne care by pediatricians: An interventional cohort study
JAAD

Deficiency of sun protection advertising exists in consumer magazines across demographic groups and varies by target demographic
JAAD

Re-evaluating the need for routine laboratory monitoring in isotretinoin patients: A retrospective analysis
JAAD

Anti-aging efficacy of melatonin-based cream: Clinical and instrumental skin evaluation
Cosmetics

Comparison the effects of topical application of olive and calendula ointments on Children’s diaper dermatitis: A triple-blind randomized clinical trial
Dermatologic Therapy

Allergic contact dermatitis caused by nickel in an eyebrow pencil
Contact Dermatitis

Comprehensive mapping of human body skin hydration: A pilot study
Skin Research & Technology

Effects of oral supplementation with FOS and GOS prebiotics in women with adult acne: the “S.O. Sweet” study: a proof-of-concept pilot trial
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Can emollients of similar composition be assumed to be therapeutically equivalent: a comparison of skin occlusivity and emulsion microstructure
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Influence of the emollient on emulsions containing lamellar liquid crystals: from molecular organization towards applicative properties
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Linagliptin inhibits high glucose‐induced trans‐differentiation of hypertrophic scar-derived fibroblasts to myofibroblasts via IGF/AKT/mTOR signaling pathway
Experimental Dermatology

Evaluating the role of small particle hyaluronic acid fillers using micro-droplet technique in the face, neck and hands: a retrospective chart review
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

ASAP inhalation and dermal uptake of particle and gas-phase phthalates —a human exposure study
Environmental Science & Technology

Postpartum stretchmarks: Repairing activity of an oral centella asiatica supplementation (Centellicum)
Minerva Ginecologica

Melanocyte activation and skin barrier disruption induced in melasma patients after 1064 nm Nd:YAG laser treatment
Lasers in Medical Science

On the role of epigallocatechin-3-gallate in protecting phospholipid molecules against UV irradiation
Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces

Epidermal barrier function in healthy black South African infants compared with adults
Pediatric Dermatology

Sunscreens are no harmless substitutes for mindful behavior under the sun
Dermatologic Therapy

Formulating O/W emulsions with plant-based actives: A stability challenge for an effective product
Cosmetics

Impact of face proportions on face attractiveness
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Clinical evaluation of the lightening effect of cytidine on hyperpigmented skin
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Use of stem cells in wound healing
Current Dermatology Reports

Use of a novel 589‐nm solid‐state laser for treatment of facial erythema
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Effects of a new topical treatment containing several hair growth promoters in women with early female pattern hair loss
Skin Appendage Disorders

"#BeautyRecap: October 16th, 2018" on KindofStephen.

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#BeautyRecap: October 2nd, 2018 https://kindofstephen.com/beautyrecap-october-2nd-2018/ Tue, 02 Oct 2018 17:32:17 +0000 https://kindofstephen.com/?p=3080 Products and Reviews PÜR unveils a ‘The Grinch’ inspired makeup collection TeenVogue.com TonyMoly and Monsta X collaborate on lip tints Allure.com A look at new launches from Curology VeryGoodLight.com Juicy Couture launches a makeup line TeenVogue.com, Allure.com A review of the Tatcha The Kissu Lip Mask Glamour.com A review of the Laneige Fresh Calming Mousse […]

"#BeautyRecap: October 2nd, 2018" on KindofStephen.

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Products and Reviews

PÜR unveils a ‘The Grinch’ inspired makeup collection
TeenVogue.com

TonyMoly and Monsta X collaborate on lip tints
Allure.com

A look at new launches from Curology
VeryGoodLight.com

Juicy Couture launches a makeup line
TeenVogue.com, Allure.com

A review of the Tatcha The Kissu Lip Mask
Glamour.com

A review of the Laneige Fresh Calming Mousse Moisturizer
Glamour.com

A look at the Origins Blooming Lipstick collection
Allure.com

A look at elf’s BeautyScape influencer inspired makeup collection
Elle.com

A look at Shiseido’s Kajal InkArtist eyeliner in Azuki Red
Allure.com

A look at KKW Beauty’s Kim Kardashian birthday collection
Allure.com

Sugarpill launches two Halloween-themed lipsticks
Allure.com

Kylie Cosmetics teases two new eyeshadow palettes
Allure.com

Hot Topic releases a ‘Beetlejuice’ inspired eyeshadow palette
TeenVogue.com

Lipslut unveils its ‘F*ck Kavanaugh’ lipstick with proceeds going to anti-sexual assault organizations
TeenVogue.com, Elle.com

Miss Fame launches a makeup collection
Allure.com

Huda Beauty launches the New Nudes eyeshadow palette
Allure.com

A look at the Too Faced Pumpkin Spice makeup collection
Allure.com, TeenVogue.com

Lush announces their 2018 Holiday collection
TeenVogue.com

Best new makeup launches coming in October selected by Sable Yong of Allure
Allure.com

Best new skincare launches coming in October selected by Sarah Kinonen of Allure
Allure.com

21 Latinx people share their relationships with red lipstick
TeenVogue.com

12 ballerinas recommend foot creams
Glamour.com

9 best new fall skincare products recommended by Vogue
Vogue.com

Chloe Hall of Elle tests different glitter masks
Elle.com

Dermatologists recommend eye creams
NewBeauty.com

Kaleigh Fasanella of Allure shares their experience of using a water softener in the shower
Allure.com

Fall beauty trends to try, recommended by Zoe Weiner of Teen Vogue
TeenVogue.com

Best winter moisturizers for every skin type recommended by Elle
Elle.com

10 face masks recommended by Vogue
Vogue.com

A look at Paris’ Hôtel Lutetia Akasha spa
Vogue.com

Retailers and Trends

“Why are mascara names so damn thirsty?” by Sable Yong of Allure
Allure.com

Sephora begins selling mystery bags
TeenVogue.com, Allure.com

A look at the “skincare diet” the antithesis to the 10 step beauty routine
Allure.com

California governor Jerry Brown signs bill banning the sale of animal-tested cosmetics
TeenVogue.com

Skincare and Beauty

Ashley Blue DeFrancesco uses ice as her makeup primer
TeenVogue.com, Allure.com

iPhone XS users say the front-facing camera automatically airbrushes selfies
Allure.com

Mario Dedivanovic’s tips for applying false eyelashes
Allure.com

A look at washing your face with carbonated water by Marci Robin of Allure
Allure.com

32 beauty secrets from Vogue
Vogue.com

Skincare tips for your neck by Sarah Ferguson of Elle
Elle.com

A look at TruSCulpt iD, the 15-minute body-sculpting treatment
Allure.com

How to treat and prevent broken capillaries by Macaela Mackenzie of Allure
Allure.com

Why Devon Abelman of Allure loves wearing pimple patches in public
Allure.com

How makeup artists get their clients’ full bodies ready for the red carpet
Elle.com

Celebrities and Interviews

Jackie Aina calls out Jeffree Star for his racist behaviour
TeenVogue.com

Tylynn Nguyen shares her $6,000 USD a year beauty routine
Glamour.com

Makeup artist Pati Dubroff shares her beauty tips
WMagazine.com

Lady Gaga had to smuggle makeup onto the set of ‘A Star is Born’
WMagazine.com

Olympic athlete Chloe Kim talks about beauty
Glamour.com

Lila Reinhart shares the beauty routine she uses to get ready for ‘Riverdale’
TeenVogue.com

Research and Technology

Camp Sun Safe: A community level sun safety intervention
JAAD

Action of surfactants on the mammal epidermal skin barrier
Giornale Italiano di Dermatologia e Venereologia

Clinical evaluation of an antiperspirant for hyperhidrosis
Giornale Italiano di Dermatologia e Venereologia

Efficacy of oral tranexamic acid in refractory melasma: A clinico–immuno-histopathological study
Dermatologic Therapy

Durability of an advanced skin protectant compared with other commercially available products in healthy human volunteers
Wounds

The effects of amniotic membrane stem cell-conditioned medium on photoaging
Journal of Dermatological Treatment

Tanning, selfies and social media
The Australasian Journal of Dermatology

Should we instruct patients to rub topical agents into skin?: The evidence
Journal of Dermatological Treatment

Beyond photoaging: additional factors involved in the process of skin aging
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Effect of N-(2-aminoethyl) ethanolamine on hypertrophic scarring changes in vitro: Finding novel anti-fibrotic therapies
Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology

Cosmeceutical potential of geranium and calendula essential oil: Determination of antioxidant activity and in vitro sun protection factor
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Hidden metals in several brands of lipstick and face powder present on Polish market
Cosmetics

Agro-industrial by-products and their bioactive compounds—an ally against oxidative stress and skin aging
Cosmetics

Hair strengthening evaluation of anisotropic osmolyte solutions (Inositol + Arginine): Cross-talk between dermal papilla fibroblast and keratinocytes of the outer root sheath using a µhair follicle 3D model
Cosmetics

"#BeautyRecap: October 2nd, 2018" on KindofStephen.

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#BeautyRecap: September 25th, 2018 https://kindofstephen.com/beautyrecap-september-25th-2018/ Tue, 25 Sep 2018 15:54:46 +0000 https://kindofstephen.com/?p=3073 Products and Reviews Tonymoly and Samyang spicy ramen collaborate on makeup collection Allure.com, TeenVogue.com A review of Chanel’s Boy de Chanel makeup line VeryGoodLight.com Colourpop to release a Disney Princess collection Elle.com, Allure.com, TeenVogue.com A look at Smith & Cult’s Blackdrop black makeup primer Glamour.com A look at Two Lips, a sheet mask designed for […]

"#BeautyRecap: September 25th, 2018" on KindofStephen.

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Products and Reviews

Tonymoly and Samyang spicy ramen collaborate on makeup collection
Allure.com, TeenVogue.com

A review of Chanel’s Boy de Chanel makeup line
VeryGoodLight.com

Colourpop to release a Disney Princess collection
Elle.com, Allure.com, TeenVogue.com

A look at Smith & Cult’s Blackdrop black makeup primer
Glamour.com

A look at Two Lips, a sheet mask designed for the vulva
Allure.com

A look at Wet n’ Wild’s MegaGlo Body Luminizer
Allure.com

Fenty launches new Stunna Lip Paint in the shade Uncuffed
TeenVogue.com, Allure.com, Glamour.com

Anastasia Beverly Hills to launch Sultry eyeshadow palette
Allure.com

A look at different jelly beauty products from brands like Farsali and Colourpop
Allure.com

7 pro surfers recommend hair conditioners
Glamour.com

Latinx-owned beauty brands recommended by Teen Vogue
TeenVogue.com

A look at new beauty products recommended by Vogue’s beauty director
Vogue.co.uk

10 best cellulite creams based on Amazon reviews
Elle.com

Retailers and Trends

Botanica Bazaar opens up in Los Angeles
Vogue.com

MAC releases Manifesto video with no ring lights, retouching, or filters
Vogue.co.uk

“The ‘natural’ beauty industry is on the rise because we’re scared of chemicals”
Vox.com

“What the rise of men’s makeup means for masculinity”
Vox.com

Skincare and Beauty

What causes mold to grow in skincare products?
Allure.com

6 aestheticians share their skincare tips
Allure.com

3 things you don’t know about Vitamin C but should
NewBeauty.com

Tips on treating ear acne
Allure.com

Yana Sheptovetskaya of Gelcream shares her tips for beautiful hands
Vogue.co.uk

Fumni Fetto’s recommendations for treating hyperpigmentation
Vogue.co.uk

9 women share their experiences with their natural hair and the “big chop”
Elle.com, TeenVogue.com

Could dryer sheets and fabric softener cause acne?
NewBeauty.com, TeenVogue.com, Allure.com

What is EMSculpt? A look at the body-contouring treatment
Allure.com

How Maureen Choi’s mother’s 5-step Korean beauty routine changed her skin
Glamour.com

A look at zinc supplements for treating acne
Allure.com

An interview with makeup artist Lottie
Allure.com

How makeup artist Rocio Cervantes makes acne part of her beauty look
TeenVogue.com

Hoyeon Jung, AmorePacific spokesperson, showcases Jeju island
Vogue.com

Celebrities and Interviews

How Jackie Aina determines whether a beauty brand is inclusive or not
Bustle.com

Ai Saotome, founder of Koh Gen Do, shares her facial massage techniques
Bustle.com

Adwoa Aboah shares her thoughts on beauty
Vogue.co.uk

Makeup artist Patrick Ta talks about trends and differences in Japanese and North American beauty
Allure.com

Gemma Chan shares her beauty routine
Allure.com

Erika La Pearl, Cardi B’s makeup artist, shares some of her beauty and makeup secrets
GlamourMagazine.co.uk

Imaan Hammam shares her beauty routine
Vogue.com

Hung Vanngo, Selena Gomez’s makeup artist, shares his beauty and makeup tips
TeenVogue.com

Amandla Stenberg talks about the issues stylists have had with her natural hair
Glamour.com

Research and Technology

Epidermal maturation, vitamin C and hyaluronan metabolism
BJD

Hyaluronan metabolism enhanced during epidermal differentiation is suppressed by vitamin C
BJD

Mineral sunscreens not recommended by Consumer Reports: What lies beneath the surface?
JAAD

A novel topical minocycline foam for the treatment of moderate-to-severe acne vulgaris: Results of two randomized, double-blind, phase 3 studies
JAAD

Clinical efficacy of a novel two-part skincare system on pollution-induced skin damage
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

A single site, open-label clinical trial, evaluating the duration, efficacy, and safety of a novel lip plumper
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Evaluation of men’s trends and experiences in aesthetic treatment
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face study of the efficacy of topical epidermal growth factor for the treatment of melasma
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Assessing the potential role for topical melatonin in an anti-aging skin regimen
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Once-daily oral Sarecycline 1.5 mg/Kg/Day is effective for moderate to severe acne vulgaris: Results from two identically designed, phase 3, randomized, double-blind clinical trials
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

A comparative analysis of electric and radiofrequency microneedling devices on the market
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Facial volumetric structural rejuvenation: A natural approach to restoring youthfulness and preventing aging
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Fractional sunburn threshold UVR doses generate equivalent Vitamin D and DNA damage in skin types I–VI but with epidermal DNA damage gradient correlated to skin darkness
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Antiseptic agents elicit short-term, personalized, and body site-specific shifts in resident skin bacterial communities
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Low dose daily aspirin reduces topical minoxidil efficacy in androgenetic alopecia patients
Dermatologic Therapy

Efficacy of an agonist of α‐MSH, the palmitoyl tetrapeptide‐20, in hair pigmentation
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

The physical and chemical disruption of human hair after bleaching – studies by transmission electron microscopy and redox proteomics
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Seasonal aggravation of acne in summers and the effect of temperature and humidity in a study in a tropical setting
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

In vivo dynamic thermal imaging of skin radiofrequency treatment
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Comparison of novel dual-mode vs conventional single pass of a 1450 ‐nm diode laser in the treatment of acne vulgaris for Korean patients: A 20‐week prospective, randomized, split‐face study
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Antioxidant properties of ferulic acid and its possible application
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology

Anti-aging effects of select botanicals: Scientific evidence and current trends
Cosmetics

Anti-aging properties of plant stem cell extracts
Cosmetics

"#BeautyRecap: September 25th, 2018" on KindofStephen.

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A quick look at collagen https://kindofstephen.com/a-quick-look-at-collagen/ Thu, 20 Sep 2018 12:55:40 +0000 https://kindofstephen.com/?p=3050 Collagen, you’ve seen it in your skincare products and have probably eaten it at some point (Yay for artificially-coloured and jiggly gelatin). But what is it? Collagen is composed of a triple helix, three strands of proteins made up of joined amino acids wrapped around each other. The main amino acid constituents of these proteins […]

"A quick look at collagen" on KindofStephen.

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Collagen, you’ve seen it in your skincare products and have probably eaten it at some point (Yay for artificially-coloured and jiggly gelatin). But what is it?

Collagen is composed of a triple helix, three strands of proteins made up of joined amino acids wrapped around each other. The main amino acid constituents of these proteins are glycine, proline, hydroxyproline, lysine, and hydroxylysine. The unique chemical structure of the amino acids helps form the shape and structure that their compounds make.

There are many types of collagen, which differ in their amino acid composition. Type I collagen is the most abundant in the human body, and Type I, III, IV, and others are found in our skin. In our body, multiple strands of collagen are found bundled together in fibrils.

You may have heard that ascorbic acid or Vitamin C is crucial in the formation of collagen, but how? Ascorbic acid is used in the conversion of proline to hydroxyproline along with oxygen, and alpha-ketoglutarate. The reaction is catalyzed or sped up by the enzyme prolyl hydroxylase and an iron. Similarly, it is needed in the hydroxylation of lysine to hydroxylysine by the enzyme lysyl hydroxylase.

Collagens are naturally glycosylated, meaning they have sugar molecules bound to them – they are found attached to the lysine and hydroxylysine molecules by the enzymes galactosyltransferase and glucosyltransferase. While this glycosylation is not fully understood, they seem important in forming and retaining the structure of the collagen. You may have heard of glycation or advanced glycation endproducts (AGEs), this happens when excessive sugar molecules are bound to the collagen non-enzymatically and can affect its structure, function, and flexibility.

The additional -OH (hydroxy) group on the hydroxyproline helps water molecules bind tightly to collagen. The coiled structure of collagen’s triple helix gives it impressive tensile strength and allows it to stretch when forces are applied. When too much force is applied the triple helix structure can become disorganized and damaged, no longer able to return to its triple helix form.

Experiments, where collagen was exposed to UV radiation in vitro, have shown that free radicals generated from the UV energy can cleave or break apart some of the bonds holding the amino acids together. When enough bonds are broken the triple helix structure can no longer be maintained and the collagen fibre loses its shape and function. Adding ascorbic acid to the solution of collagen, when it was exposed to UV, reduced some of the free radicals produced – leading to fewer bonds breaking and structure disruption. This may highlight one of the ways naturally present antioxidants in the skin help us defend against the environment.

N. Metreveli, L. Namicheishvili, K. Jariashvili, G. Mrevlishvili, A. Sionkowska. Mechanisms of the influence of UV irradiation on collagen and collagen-ascorbic acid solutions. International Journal of Photoenergy (2006), DOI: 10.1155/IJP/2006/76830

Duer Research Group. Collagen glycation and diabetes. Website, URL: https://www.ch.cam.ac.uk/group/duer/research/collagen-glycation-and-diabetes

A. Masic, L. Bertinetti, R. Schuetz, S.W. Chang, T.H. Metzger, M.J. Buehler, P. Fratzl. Osmotic pressure induced tensile forces in tendon collagen. Nature Communications (2015), DOI: 10.1038/ncomms6942

J.M. Waller, H.I. Maibach. ge and skin structure and function, a quantitativeapproach (II): protein, glycosaminoglycan, water, andlipid content and structure. Skin Research and Technology (2006), DOI: 10.1111/j.0909-752X.2006.00146.x

"A quick look at collagen" on KindofStephen.

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3050
#BeautyRecap: September 18th, 2018 https://kindofstephen.com/beautyrecap-september-18th-2018/ Tue, 18 Sep 2018 12:55:13 +0000 https://kindofstephen.com/?p=3064 Products and Reviews Allure announces the 2018 Best of Beauty winners Allure.com KKW Beauty announces Cherry Blossom makeup collection Allure.com A look at the Wet n Wild Fantasy Makers Halloween makeup collection Allure.com, TeenVogue.com A review of the Summer Fridays Overtime Mask TeenVogue.com OPI brings back 9 “Fan Favourite” shades of nail polish Byrdie.com a […]

"#BeautyRecap: September 18th, 2018" on KindofStephen.

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Products and Reviews

Allure announces the 2018 Best of Beauty winners
Allure.com

KKW Beauty announces Cherry Blossom makeup collection
Allure.com

A look at the Wet n Wild Fantasy Makers Halloween makeup collection
Allure.com, TeenVogue.com

A review of the Summer Fridays Overtime Mask
TeenVogue.com

OPI brings back 9 “Fan Favourite” shades of nail polish
Byrdie.com

a look at the Kylie x Jordyn Makeup Collection
Allure.com, TeenVogue.com

MAC to launch Powder Kiss moisturizing matte lipsticks in October 2018
Allure.com

A comparison of the new Glossier Perfecting Skin Tint with the old formula
Allure.com

A look at Madbeauty’s Disney Villain sheet masks
TeenVogue.com

A review of the Megababe Rosy Pits natural deodorant
Glamour.com

A look at the 2018 Too Faced Holiday makeup collection
Allure.com

Too Faced launches Better Than Sex mascara vault
TeenVogue.com

6 beauty products recommended by Elle Canada
ElleCanada.com

12 luxury moisturizers recommended by Allure
Allure.com

8 acne patches recommended by Glamour
Glamour.com

9 drugstore highlighters recommended by Allure
Allure.com

9 liquid eyeshadows recommended by Allure
Allure.com

Products recommended for the Summer to Fall transition by David Yi
VeryGoodLight.com

Foundations for people with yellow and golden undertones recommended by Allure
Allure.com

Retailers and Trends

So who’s winning the Korean beauty e-commerce war? by Kai Proschan
VeryGoodLight.com

Rihanna celebrates 1 year anniversary of Fenty Beauty
TeenVogue.com, Allure.com

A look at Eco + Amour, a low-waste beauty store in Toronto
CosmeticsDesign.com

The Detox Market opens in New York
Vogue.com

A look at the effect Fenty Beauty has had on the makeup industry
Glamour.com

Gucci Beauty launches an Instagram account
Elle.com

Skincare and Beauty

Is an FDA crackdown on probiotic products coming? by Brittany Burhop Fallon
NewBeauty.com

Allergan acquires Bonti makers of a shorter-acting neuromodulator EB-001
NewBeauty.com

Coconut oil for acne? Learn how it can help clear your skin by Sable Yong
TeenVogue.com

What’s the deal with beauty ampoules? by Victoria DiPlacido
ElleCanada.com

The truth about drinking collagen supplements for better skin by Kaleigh Fasanella
Allure.com

Sarah Kinonen details her experience at the Tata Harper Spa in France
Allure.com

New Mexico officials warning people who received PRP at a clinic to get tested for bloodborne diseases
TeenVogue.com, Allure.com, NewBeauty.com

Emily Amick walks through many different types of mascara
Allure.com

These “salt and pepper” lash extensions are Instagram’s unexpected way to get fuller-looking lashes by Devon Abelman
Allure.com

Everything you need to know before you make an eyelash extension appointment by Chloe Hall
Elle.com

A beauty lover’s guide to the Lower East Side by Victoria DiPlacido
ElleCanada.com

Male student gets suspended from high school for wearing makeup
TeenVogue.com

Celebrities and Interviews

An interview with Sonoya Mizuno about beauty ideals
Glamour.com

Lili Reinhart talks about how acne can trigger her body dysmorphia
TeenVogue.com

BareMinerals taps Hailey Baldwin and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley as new faces
Elle.com, TeenVogue.com

Joey King shares her beauty routine for TIFF 2018
TeenVogue.com

Aly Raisman, Jackie Aina walked a makeup-free runway show for Olay
Elle.com, Glamour.com

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler talk about their collaboration with Lancome
Allure.com

Rowan Blanchard says wearing makeup is “a costume”
TeenVogue.com

An interview with Dreamcatcher
Allure.com

Companies and Outreach

Faber-Castell to open facility in Illinois
CosmeticsDesign.com

Huda Kattan ‘not interested’ in an IPO
ArabianBusiness.com

Shiseido CEO Masahiko Uotani explains why the cosmetics giant buys start-ups
CNBC.com

Research and Technology

Sunscreen use and melanoma risk among young Australian adults
JAMA Dermatology

Evaluation of a brief dermatologist-delivered intervention vs usual care on sun protection behavior
JAMA Dermatology

A comparison of tanning habits among gym tanners and other tanners
JAMA Dermatology

Characteristics and skin cancer risk behaviors of us adult sunless tanners
JAMA Dermatology

Facial-aging app availability in waiting rooms as a potential opportunity for skin cancer prevention
JAMA Dermatology

Association between Mediterranean anti-inflammatory dietary profile and severity of psoriasis
JAMA Dermatology

Variation in daily ultraviolet light exposure and sun protection behaviours of melanoma survivors: an observational single-arm pilot study with a wearable sensor
BJD

Short‐term exposure of human sebocytes to 13‐cis‐retinoic acid induces acnegenic changes
BJD

An explanation for the mysterious distribution of melanin in human skin: a rare example of asymmetric (melanin) organelle distribution during mitosis of basal layer progenitor keratinocytes
BJD

Adverse cutaneous reactions to skin care products on the face vary with age, but not with sex
Contact Dermatitis

Melanoma-prone families: new evidence of distinctive clinical and histological features of melanomas in CDKN2A mutation carriers
Archives of Dermatological Research

Spironolactone depletes the XPB protein and inhibits DNA damage responses in UVB-irradiated human skin
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Associations among two vitamin D receptor (VDR) gene polymorphisms (ApaI and TaqI) in acne vulgaris: A pilot susceptibility study
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Combination chemical peels are more effective than single chemical peel in treatment of mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris: A split-face comparative clinical trial
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Anti‐inflammatory and antiradical effects of a 2% diosmin cream in a human skin organ culture as model
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Clinical and confocal evaluation of avenanthramides-based daily cleansing and emollient cream in pediatric population affected by atopic dermatitis and xerosis
Giornale Italiano di Dermatologia e Venereologia

Comparative evaluation between two nutritional supplements in the improvement of telogen effluvium
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Polymorphisms in P53 and VEGFA genes in different subtypes of periorbital hyperpigmentation in a Malaysian Chinese population
Australasian Journal of Dermatology

Calprotectin can play an inflammatory role in acne vulgaris
Advances in Dermatology and Allergology

Impact of inorganic UV filters contained in sunscreen products on tropical stony corals (Acropora spp.)
Science of the Total Environment

Low dose stingless bee honey increases viability of human dermal fibroblasts that could potentially promote wound healing
Wound Medicine

A frog cathelicidin peptide effectively promotes cutaneous wound healing in mice
Biochemical Journal

"#BeautyRecap: September 18th, 2018" on KindofStephen.

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