#BeautyRecap: July 17th, 2018

Research and Technology

Red meat and processed meat intake and risk for cutaneous melanoma in white women and men: Two prospective cohort studies
JAAD

Diversity in dermatology: Roadmap for improvement
JAAD

In vitro assessment of the broad-spectrum ultraviolet protection of clothing
JAAD

Black dots in palmoplantar warts—challenging a concept: A histopathologic study
JAAD

The “dermatologist recommended” label: Is it meaningful?
JAAD

Modernizing regulation of cosmetic products: Reintroduction of the Personal Care Products Safety Act
JAAD

The role of sunscreen in the prevention of cutaneous melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancer
JAAD

Myths, truths, and clinical relevance of comedogenicity product labeling
JAMA Dermatology

Gua sha, or coining therapy
JAMA Dermatology

Stratum corneum analysis provide a minimal invasive tool to study immune response and skin barrier in atopic dermatitis children
British Journal of Dermatology

Correlates of positive parental attitudes towards adolescent indoor tanning in the united states
British Journal of Dermatology

In situ bio‐distribution and residency of a topical anti‐inflammatory using fluorescence lifetime imaging microscopy
British Journal of Dermatology

A Chinese herbal medicine preparation (PTQX) for children with moderate to severe atopic eczema: a pilot RCT
British Journal of Dermatology

The skin barrier: Epidermis versus environment
Experimental Dermatology

Full-thickness human skin-on-chip with enhanced epidermal morphogenesis and barrier function
Materials Today

Follicular penetration of caffeine from topically applied nanoemulsion formulations containing penetration enhancers: In vitro human skin studies
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology

Is oral omega-3 effective in reducing mucocutaneous side effects of isotretinoin in patients with acne vulgaris?
Dermatology Research and Practice

Clinical improvements in very dry skin from a natural ingredient-based moisturizing cream compared with a leading colloidal oatmeal control
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Novel topical cytokinin improves coarse wrinkles and skin roughness without skin irritation
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Moisturizers vs. barrier repair in the management of atopic dermatitis
Annals of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology

Knowledge and attitude of general population toward effects of sun exposure and use of sunscreens
Indian Journal of Dermatology

Factors aggravating or precipitating acne in Indian adults: A hospital-based study of 110 cases
Indian Journal of Dermatology

Bioactive compounds and health benefits of some palm species traditionally used in Africa and the Americas – A review
Journal of Ethnopharmacology

Red light-emitting diode irradiation regulates oxidative stress and inflammation through SPHK1/NF-κB activation in human keratinocytes
Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology

Phenotypic and lipidomic characterization of primary human epidermal keratinocytes exposed to simulated solar UV radiation
Journal of Dermatological Science

Chicken collagen hydrolysates differentially mediate anti-inflammatory activity and type I collagen synthesis on human dermal fibroblasts
Food Science and Human Wellness

Urban particulate matter in air pollution penetrates into the barrier-disrupted skin and produces ROS-dependent cutaneous inflammatory response in vivo

Anti-pollution or anti-particulate matter has become a huge buzzword in cosmetics. Pollution and particulate matter have been linked to many negative health effects (mainly cardiovascular) and while the link to skin health and acceleration of ageing are logical…does the data support it?

There have a been a few correlational studies that have shown that people living in areas with higher levels of pollution exhibit more signs of oxidative stress in skin lipids and some have even correlated it with increased wrinkling. But what’s the mechanism and can particulate matter even penetrate the skin?

A group of researchers from Seoul used an in vivo mouse and in vitro keratinocyte model to study this.

First was the collection of particulate matter from the air. To do this they set up a vinyl tarp on a rooftop near a busy intersection to collect dust. The particulate matter was then purified and separated to be used in the experiment. The majority of the particles ranged from 200 to 300 nm. Particulates found included: Naphthalene, biphenyl, acenaphthylene, acenaphthene, fluorene, dibenzothiophene, and 28 others identified.

For the in vitro portion of the experiment, cell cultures of human primary keratinocytes were performed with varying concentrations of the particulate matter. The cells absorbed the particulate matter, and the researchers found a concentration-dependent increase of inflammatory cytokine IL-8 and collagenase MMP-1. They also found that the addition of an antioxidant, n-acetyl cysteine, was able to suppress this effect.

In the in vivo portion of the experiment, the researchers used mice that did not produce melanin and divided them into two skin conditions: One with their skin intact, and another with barrier-damaged skin. To damage the skin barrier they stripped the skin 10 times with tape to remove layers of the stratum corneum. The particulate matter was applied 10 times over 2 weeks and included a skin penetration enhancer (DMSO).

While the in vitro results may be “scary”, the in vivo results were milder. Particulate matter was shown to penetrate into the intercellular space of the barrier-disrupted mice, but not the intact mice. Particulate matter was found in hair follicles of both, but there was no epidermal penetration of the particulate matter in the intact mice.

The researchers did find an increase in inflammation in the particulate matter treated skin compared to skin not exposed- whether or not the sin was intact or tape-stripped. However, the inflammation was much more severe in the tape-stripped group. The researchers also showed that intradermal n-acetyl cysteine was able to ameliorate the increase in inflammation caused by particulate matter, but they did not perform this portion of the experiment on the intact mice. It’s likely this same treatment will have a similar effect in the intact mice, but it is unknown.

The researchers also point out some issues with their own experiment: The concentration of particulate matter may not reflect the amount that a person would be exposed to and that their sampling of particulate matter had a high concentration of sulfur which may be unique to their location. It’s also important to remember that mice are not humans, and we may react differently.

While it’s likely that the addition of anti-inflammatories and antioxidants may help attenuate some of the potential inflammation caused by pollution and particulate matter, it’s unknown which chemicals and what combinations are most effective for humans. There’s also no standard measurement to gauge a protective effect so it is impossible to compare one product to another. Again, we see another case of the marketing being ahead of the science.

Source: Jin Seon-Pil, Li Zhenyu, Choi Eun Kyung, Lee Serah,
Kim Yoen Kyung, Seo Eun Young, Chung Jin Ho, Cho Soyun.Urban particulate
matter in air pollution penetrates into the barrier-disrupted skin and produces ROSdependent
cutaneous inflammatory response in vivo.Journal of Dermatological Science
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdermsci.2018.04.015

#BeautyRecap: July 11th, 2018

Research and Technology

A theoretical and experimental study of the temporal reduction in UV protection provided by a facial day cream
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Review of environmental effects of oxybenzone and other sunscreen active ingredients
JAAD

Full-thickness human skin-on-chip with enhanced epidermal morphogenesis and barrier function
Materials Today

Prevalence, predictors and comorbidity of dry skin in the general population
JEADV

Is human sebum the source of skin follicular ultraviolet-induced red fluorescence? A cellular to histological study
Dermatology

Mold exposure affects the development of atopic dermatitis in infants with skin barrier dysfunction
Annals of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology

Augmentation and eversion of lips without injections: the lip peel
JAAD

Glycyrrhiza flavonoids and its major component, licochalcone A, inhibit melanogenesis through MAPK/ERK pathway by activating ERK phosphorylation
Journal of Dermatological Science

Lipoxin A4 inhibits UV radiation-induced skin inflammation and oxidative stress in mice
Journal of Dermatological Science

A novel, topical, nonsteroidal, TRPV1 antagonist, PAC-14028 cream improves skin barrier function and exerts anti-inflammatory action through modulating epidermal differentiation markers and suppressing Th2 cytokines in atopic dermatitis
Journal of Dermatological Science

Urban particulate matter in air pollution penetrates into the barrier-disrupted skin and produces ROS-dependent cutaneous inflammatory response in vivo
Journal of Dermatological Science

Mitochondrial damage and cytoskeleton reorganization in human dermal fibroblasts exposed to artificial visible light similar to screen-emitted light
Journal of Dermatological Science

Proteome-wide changes in primary skin keratinocytes exposed to diesel particulate extract — A role for antioxidants in skin health
Journal of Dermatological Science

Exposure of human melanocytes to UVB twice and subsequent incubation leads to cellular senescence and senescence-associated pigmentation through the prolonged p53 expression
Journal of Dermatological Science

Proteins involved in the antioxidant and inflammatory response in rutin-treated human skin fibroblasts exposed to UVA or UVB irradiation
Journal of Dermatological Science

Cathepsin D contributes to the accumulation of advanced glycation end products during photoaging
Journal of Dermatological Science

Variation in the RPTN gene may facilitate straight hair formation in Europeans and East Asians
Journal of Dermatological Science

Substantial evidence for the rhododendrol-induced generation of hydroxyl radicals that causes melanocyte cytotoxicity and induces chemical leukoderma
Journal of Dermatological Science

A broader filtration of UVA1 wavelengths improves skin photoprotection
Journal of Dermatological Science

Influence of epidermal basement membrane integrity on cutaneous permeability barrier function
Journal of Dermatological Science

Propionibacterium acnes-derived extracellular vesicles promote acne-like phenotypes in human epidermis
Journal of Dermatological Science

Topically applied nicotinamide inhibits human hair follicle growth ex vivo
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Prevalence of tanning addiction and behavioral health conditions among ethnically and racially diverse adolescents
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Red light-emitting diode irradiation regulates oxidative stress and inflammation through SPHK1/NF-κB activation in human keratinocytes

Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology

Physical properties of the photodamaged human skin dermis: rougher collagen surface and stiffer/harder mechanical properties
Experimental Dermatology

#BeautyRecap: July 3rd, 2018

Research and Technology

Deep learning‐based, computer‐aided classifier developed with a small dataset of clinical images surpasses board‐certified dermatologists in skin tumor diagnosis
British Journal of Dermatology

Short‐term exposure of human sebocytes to 13‐cis retinoic acid induces acnegenic changes
British Journal of Dermatology

An explanation for the mysterious distribution of melanin in human skin – a rare example of asymmetric (melanin) organelle distribution during mitosis of basal layer progenitor keratinocytes
British Journal of Dermatology

Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoaging
British Journal of Dermatology

Pyruvate protects against cellular senescence through the control of mitochondrial and lysosomal function in dermal fibroblasts
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

The anti-inflammatory activities of Propionibacterium acnes CAMP factor-targeted acne vaccines
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

A broader filtration of UVA1 wavelengths improves skin photoprotection
Journal of Dermatological Science

A pilot split‐scalp study of combined fractional radiofrequency microneedling and 5% topical minoxidil in treating male pattern hair loss
Clinical And Experimental Dermatology

The Hugh Jackman effect—the impact of celebrity health disclosure on skin cancer awareness
Dermatologic Surgery

Sub-optimal application of a high SPF sunscreen prevents epidermal DNA damage in vivo
Acta Dermato-Venereologica

Cupping in dermatology: a critical review and update
Acta Dermato-Venereologica

Factors associated with quality of life in facial melasma: a cross-sectional study
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Exploring pathways for sustained melanogenesis in facial melasma: an immunofluorescence study
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics ‐ current use and future prospects
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

In vitro skin penetration of petrolatum and soybean oil and effects of glyceryl monooleate
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Vichy Thermal Spring Water (VTSW), a cosmetic ingredient of potential interest in the frame of skin aging exposome: an in vitro study
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Crocin, a natural molecule with potentially beneficial effects against skin aging
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Body odor aldehyde reduction by acetic acid bacterial extract including enzymes: alcohol dehydrogenase and aldehyde dehydrogenase
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Increased incidence of chronic actinic dermatitis in relation to climate changes and air pollution during the past 15 years in Korea
Photodermatology, Photoimmunology and Photomedicine

Sun sensitivity and sun protective behaviors during sun exposure among indoor office workers in the American Midwest
Photodermatology, Photoimmunology and Photomedicine

Effects of a ceramide containing water‐in‐oil ointment on skin barrier function and allergen penetration in an IL‐31 treated 3D model of the disrupted skin barrier
Experimental Dermatology

The role of skin barrier in occupational contact dermatitis
Experimental Dermatology

Gromwell (Lithospermum erythrorhizon) root extract protects against glycation and related inflammatory and oxidative stress while offering UV absorption capability
Experimental Dermatology

Measurement of the biomechanical function and structure of ex vivo drying skin using Raman spectral analysis and its modulation with emollient mixtures
Experimental Dermatology

Evaluation of antimicrobial textiles for atopic dermatitis
JEADV

Protective effect of skin‐derived precursors on photoaging in nude mice
Australasian Journal of Dermatology

#BeautyRecap: June 26th, 2018

Research and Technology

Our judgement is influenced by conflict of interest
BJD

Neural control of sweat secretion: a review
BJD

Effect of atopic skin stressors on natural moisturizing factors and cytokines in healthy adult epidermis
BJD

The prevalence of antibody responses against Staphylococcus aureus antigens in patients with atopic dermatitis: a systematic review and meta‐analysis
BJD

Staphylococcus aureus and atopic dermatitis: a complex relationship
BJD

Mycosporine‐like amino acids: does Nature make a better sunscreen?
BJD

Short-term exposure of human sebocytes to 13-cis retinoic acid induces acnegenic changes
BJD

Dietary recommendations for adults with psoriasis or psoriatic arthritis from the medical board of the national psoriasis foundation
JAMA Dermatology

2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine containing hair dye as a less allergenic alternative for para-phenylenediamine allergic individuals
JAAD

No evidence for follicular keratinocyte hyperproliferation in acne lesions as compared to autologous healthy hair follicles
Experimental Dermatology

Skin microneedling for acne scars associated with pigmentation in patients with dark skin
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Platelet rich plasma for the management of hair loss: Better alone or in combination?
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

The evaluation of elasticity after nonablative radiofrequency rejuvenation
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Comparative study between: Carboxytherapy, platelet‐rich plasma, and tripolar radiofrequency, their efficacy and tolerability in striae distensae
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Dual functional bioactive ‐peptide, AIMP1‐derived peptide (AdP), for anti‐aging
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

High volume of polysorbate‐containing (Tween® 80) solutions induces false‐positive results in intradermal test
JEADV

Clindamycin phosphate 1.2%/benzoyl peroxide 3% fixed‐dose combination gel versus topical combination therapy of adapalene 0.1% gel and clindamycin phosphate 1.2% gel in the treatment of acne vulgaris in Japanese patients: A multicenter, randomized, investigator‐blind, parallel‐group study
Japanese Journal of Dermatology

Loricrin confers photoprotective function against UVB in corneocytes
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Inhibition of human tyrosinase requires molecular motifs distinctively different from mushroom tyrosinase
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Laser irradiation of organic tattoo pigments releases carcinogens with 3,3-dichlorobenzidine inducing DNA strand breaks in human skin cells
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Investigating the therapeutic potential of a probiotic in a clinical population with chronic hand dermatitis
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Involvement of the nuclear structural proteins in aging-related responses of human skin to the environmental stress
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Ginsenoside C‐Mx isolated from notoginseng stem‐leaf ginsenosides attenuates ultraviolet b‐mediated photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts
Photochemistry and Photobiology

Ribes nigrum L. Prevents UVB‐mediated photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts: Potential antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity
Photochemistry and Photobiology

Research on hair bleach that causes less hair damage and smells less pungent than ammonium hydroxide
Cosmetics

A cross-sectional study of variations in the biophysical parameters of skin among healthy volunteers
Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology and Leprology

Incorporation of Eugenia dysenterica extract in microemulsions preserves stability, antioxidant effect and provides enhanced cutaneous permeation
Journal of Molecular Liquids

Tazarotene gel with narrow-band UVB phototherapy: a synergistic combination in psoriasis
Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia

Unilateral acne after facial palsy
Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia

Allergic contact dermatitis caused by benzyl salicylate in hair products
Contact Dermatitis

A fibrin biofilm covers blood clots and protects from microbial invasion
Journal of Clinical Investigation

Neonatal phototherapy: A novel therapy to prevent allergic skin disease for at least 5 years
Neonatology

Progress on reconstructed human skin models for allergy research and identifying contact sensitizers
Current Topics in Microbiology and Immunology

#BeautyRecap: June 19th, 2018

Research and Technology

Knowledge removes discomfort
JAMA

Immunotherapy and skin side effects
JAMA

The ethical issue of “cherry picking” patients
JAAD

Articles of interest to dermatologists from the nondermatologic literature
JAAD

Cross-sectional assessment of ultraviolet radiation–related behaviors among young people after a diagnosis of melanoma or basal cell carcinoma
JAAD

Keeping an eye on atopic dermatitis
JAAD

Dermatoses caused by cultural practices
JAAD

2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine containing hair dye as a less allergenic alternative for para-phenylenediamine allergic individuals
JAAD

Widespread regular sunscreen application deemed not useful in the U.S.A.
British Journal of Dermatology

Deep learning-based, computer-aided classifier developed with a small dataset of clinical images surpasses board-certified dermatologists in skin tumor diagnosis
British Journal of Dermatology

Widespread regular sunscreen application deemed not useful in the U.S.A.: reply from authors
British Journal of Dermatology

Why a randomized melanoma screening trial is not a good idea
British Journal of Dermatology

The global prevalence and correlates of skin bleaching: A meta-analysis and meta-regression analysis
International Journal of Dermatology

Polyamine regulator AMD1 promotes cell migration in epidermal wound healing
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Dermal fibroblast SLC3A2 deficiency leads to premature aging and loss of epithelial homeostasis
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

The in vitro antimicrobial evaluation of commercially essential oils and their combinations against acne
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Colour differences in Caucasian and Oriental women’s faces illuminated by white light‐emitting diode sources
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Human skin‐depigmenting effects of resveratryl triglycolate, a hybrid compound of resveratrol and glycolic acid
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Validation of an in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) method in blinded ring‐testing
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

The treatment of hyaluronic acid aesthetic interventional induced visual loss (AIIVL): A consensus on practical guidance
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

A population ‐based cohort study of atopic eczema among young adult males in Singapore
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Acne treatment with no side effects
New Scientist

Two important novelties in etiopathogenesis and therapy of acne
JEADV

Cutibacterium acnes (Propionibacterium acnes) and acne vulgaris: a brief look at the latest updates
JEADV

Characterisation of Cutibacterium acnes phylotypes in acne and in vivo exploratory evaluation of Myrtacine®
JEADV

Effectiveness and safety of an overnight patch containing Allium cepa extract and Allantoin for post-dermatologic surgery scars
Aesthetic Plastic Surgery

Protective effect of crocin on ultraviolet B ‑induced dermal fibroblast photoaging
Molecular Medicine Reports

Oxybenzone and solar filters in general: The good and the bad
Actas Dermo-Sifiliograficas

Innovative natural ingredients-based multiple emulsions: The effect on human skin moisture, sebum content, pore size and pigmentation
Molecules

Stabilizing the microbiome skin-gut-brain axis with natural plant botanical ingredients in cosmetics
Cosmetics

Involvement of the nuclear structural proteins in aging-related responses of human skin to the environmental stress
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology