#BeautyRecap: August 14th, 2018

Research and Technology

Pilot evaluation of safety, efficacy, and tolerability of a new topical formulation for facial hyperpigmentation, combining ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and crosslinked resilient hyaluronic acid
JAAD

The effect of topical sunscreen plus antioxidant against the visible light biologic effects
JAAD

Safety and efficacy of microfocused ultrasound with visualization for the correction of moderate-to-severe atrophic acne scars
JAAD

Comparison of Er:YAG laser, short pulse-duration pulsed dye laser, and long pulse-duration pulsed dye laser in treating sebaceous hyperplasia
JAAD

Oral Polypodium leucotomos extract and its impact on visible light–induced pigmentation
JAAD

A facewash containing specific plant-derived monoterpenes reduced Propionibacterium acnes burden and improved acne symptoms
JAAD

Sweat and hair: Online interventions for health in African-American women
JAAD

Stem cell–conditioned media as a potential antiaging technology in skin care
JAAD

Understanding important skin aging parameters related to ethnicity: A comprehensive study
JAAD

Tolerance of a low-level blue and red light therapy acne mask in acne patients with sensitive skin
JAAD

The effect of socioeconomic status on risk of stage IV melanoma
JAAD

Children sustain high levels of skin DNA photodamage, with a modest increase of serum 25‐hydroxyvitamin D3, after a summer holiday in Northern Europe
BJD

Acne: A side effect of masculinizing hormonal therapy in transgender patients
BJD

Gut microbiota alterations in moderate to severe acne vulgaris patients
The Journal of Dermatology

Evaluation of a brief dermatologist-delivered intervention vs usual care on sun protection behavior
JAMA Dermatology

Analysis of the Twitter “Don’t Fry Day” campaign
JAMA Dermatology

Dietary recommendations for adults with psoriasis or psoriatic arthritis from the medical board of the National Psoriasis Foundation
JAMA Dermatology

Indoor tanning and the risk of developing non-cutaneous cancers: a systematic review and meta-analysis
Cancer Causes & Control

Caffeine delivery in porcine skin: a confocal Raman study
Archives of Dermatological Research

Crocin, a natural molecule with potentially beneficial effects against skin ageing

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Preliminary randomized controlled trial of antiaging effects of L-ascorbic acid applied in combination with no-needle and microneedle mesotherapy
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Evaluation of therapeutic efficacy and safety of tranexamic acid local infiltration in combination with topical 4% hydroquinone cream compared to topical 4% hydroquinone cream alone in patients with melasma: A split-face study
Dermatology Research and Practice

Characterization of the human ridged and non-ridged skin: a comprehensive histological, histochemical and immunohistochemical analysis
Histochemistry and Cell Biology

Effects on skin of Stichopus japonicus viscera extracts detected with saponin including Holothurin A: Down-regulation of Melanin Synthesis and Up-regulation of Neocollagenesis Mediated by ERK signaling pathway
Journal of Ethnopharmacology

Patch tests should include chemicals used in false nail products, say dermatologists
BMJ News

#BeautyRecap: August 7th, 2018

Research and Technology

The effect of milk consumption on acne: a meta‐analysis of observational studies
JEADV

A single center, randomized, double-blinded, multiple-exposure evaluation of SPF 50+ and SPF 100+ sunscreens for prevention of erythema under actual use conditions
JAAD

Reflectance confocal microscopy and image analysis to evaluate the efficacy of a topical facial serum with 20% vitamin C in improving signs of aging
JAAD

Properties of sunscreen influence its application
JAAD

Motivations to use, and to stop use of, tanning beds among sexual-minority men: A qualitative study
JAAD

Effect of adding a diet with index and low glycemic load for 12 weeks in the treatment of moderate acne: Randomized clinical trial
JAAD

A retinoid composition that improves skin aging attributes without irritation
JAAD

Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models
JAAD

A comprehensive facial skin brightening regimen uses a multimechanistic approach to delivering pigment-evening benefits in an ethnically diverse population
JAAD

Analysis of gut microbiome in patients with acne vulgaris
JAAD

An observational study to evaluate a novel facial masque in improving the tolerability of common esthetic procedures
JAAD

Antiglycation effect of unique topical facial cream containing carnosine and alteromonas ferment extract in epidermis and dermis of human skin explants
JAAD

An effective yet gentle foaming facial cleanser specifically designed for redness-prone skin
JAAD

A qualitative study on the attitudes, behaviors, and beliefs of urban adult Filipinos on sunlight exposure
JAAD

Synergistic effects of long-wavelength ultraviolet A1 and visible light on pigmentation and erythema
JAAD

Using Google search data for “sunburn” as a surrogate for sunburn incidence in the United States
JAAD

An international comparison of Google searches for sunscreen, sunburn, skin cancer, and melanoma: Current trends and public health implications
JAAD

Training hairdressers to screen for skin cancer of the scalp and neck
JAAD

The impact of education on the attitude and usage of sunscreen by middle school age children
JAAD

Skin hydration comparison of five prescribed emollients
JAAD

Sensitive skin in France: Updated epidemiologic data
JAAD

Topical treatments without hydroquinone as an option in the treatment of melasma: A case study
JAAD

A pilot study of skin age analysis with the use of ultraviolet photography reveals trends in sun exposure behaviors among adolescents
JAAD

Antioxidant capacity of a comprehensive topical antioxidant system versus a leading antioxidant serum when exposed to oxidative stress in an ex vivo human skin model
JAAD

Understanding important skin aging parameters related to ethnicity: A comprehensive study
JAAD

What is the most satisfactory treatment for skin tightening according to age?
JAAD

Treatment of moderate-to-severe facial acne vulgaris with the use of a solid-state fractional 589/1,319-nm laser
JAAD

Topical DNA repair enzyme cream for the treatment of actinic cheilitis
JAAD

Efficacy of a moisturizer containing a pseudo‐ceramide and a eucalyptus extract for Japanese patients with mild atopic dermatitis in the Summer
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Anti-oxidative effects of 17 β-estradiol and genistein in human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes
Journal of Dermatological Science

Preliminary randomized controlled trial of antiaging effects of l‐ascorbic acid applied in combination with no‐needle and microneedle mesotherapy
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Measuring the frequency of consumer hair combing and magnitude of combing forces on individual hairs in a tress and the implications for product evaluation and claims substantiation
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Use of LC‐MS analysis to elucidate by‐products of niacinamide transformation following in vitro skin permeation studies
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Efficacy and safety of the traditional Japanese medicine Keigairengyoto in the treatment of Acne vulgaris
Dermatology Research & Practice

Effect of Evening Primrose oil on Korean patients With mild atopic dermatitis: A randomized, double-blinded, placebo-controlled clinical study
Annals of Dermatology

Possible role of single stranded DNA Binding Protein 3 on skin hydration by regulating epidermal differentiation
Annals of Dermatology

Three streams for the mechanism of hair graying
Annals of Dermatology

Intradermal injection of Botulinum toxin: A safer treatment modality for forehead wrinkles
Annals of Dermatology

#BeautyRecap: July 31st, 2018

Research and Technology

The use of energy devices in the treatment of striae: a systematic literature review.
Journal of Dermatological Treatment

Assessment of dermal absorption of aluminum from a representative antiperspirant formulation using a 26Al microtracer approach
Clinical and Translational Science

Applications and efficacy of platelet‐rich plasma in dermatology: A clinical review
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Perspectives in cosmetic dermatology: What is in front of the mirror?
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Assessment of the moisturizing properties of a magnetic mask containing iron oxide particles
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Antiaging efficacy of a retinaldehyde‐based cream compared with glycolic acid peel sessions: A randomized controlled study
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Keratin‐based particles for protection and restoration of hair properties
International Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Predicting lipstick sensory properties with lab tests
International Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

An updated review of clinical methods in the assessment of aging skin ‐ new perspectives and evaluation for claims support
International Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Skin sensitivity and skin microbiota: Is there a link?
Experimental Dermatology

The widespread use of topical antimicrobials enriches for resistance in Staphylococcus aureus isolated from patients with atopic dermatitis
British Journal of Dermatology

Is melanoma mortality declining in Spain? Analysis of trends from 1975 to 2016
British Journal of Dermatology

Perception of dermatology by medical students
Journal der Deutschen Dermatologischen Gesellschaft

In situ and invasive melanoma in a high ‐risk, new zealand, population: A population‐based study
Australasian Journal of Dermatology

Revisiting, in vivo, the hair regreasing process by the Sebuprint method
Skin Research & Technology

Topographic approach to the long‐term effect of solar exposure on facial skin of Korean automobile commuters
Skin Research & Technology

Transepidermal water loss, stratum corneum hydration, and skin surface pH of female African and Caucasian nursing students
Skin Research & Technology

Facial-aging app availability in waiting rooms as a potential opportunity for skin cancer prevention
JAMA Dermatology

Increasing minority representation in the dermatology department
JAMA Dermatology

Characteristics and skin cancer risk behaviors of adult sunless tanners in the United States
JAMA Dermatology

Glucosamine abrogates the stem cell factor  + endothelin-1-induced stimulation of melanogenesis via a deficiency in MITF expression due to the proteolytic degradation of CREB in human melanocytes
Archives of Dermatological Research

The use of an innovative film-forming topical gel in preventing striae gravidarum and treating striae distensae
The Australasian Journal of Dermatology

A frog cathelicidin peptide effectively promotes cutaneous wound healing in mice
The Biochemical Journal

Allergic contact dermatitis to personal care products and topical medications in adults with atopic dermatitis
JAAD

Preliminary investigations of spider silk in wounds in vivo — Implications for an innovative wound dressing
Burns

A novel dermo-cosmetic product containing thermal spring water, sucralfate, copper sulfate, and zinc sulfate in the management of hand eczema
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

The eraser challenge — Self-inflicted friction injuries in a school child
Burns

Keratosis pilaris and its subtypes: Associations, new molecular and pharmacologic etiologies, and therapeutic options
American Journal of Clinical Dermatology

Relations between epidermal barrier dysregulation and staphylococci-dominated microbiome dysbiosis in atopic dermatitis
Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology

Insights into male androgenetic alopecia: Differential gene expression profiling of plucked hair follicles and integration with genetic data
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Cytoprotection of antioxidant biocompounds from grape pomace: Further exfoliant phytoactive ingredients for cosmetic products
Cosmetics

Atopic dermatitis in US adults – epidemiology, association with marital status and atopy
Annals of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology

Socioeconomics of atopic dermatitis-can we afford new treatments?
Annals of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology

The antibacterial effect in vitro of honey derived from various Danish flora
Dermatology Research and Practice

Effect of a botanical cleansing lotion on skin sebum and erythema of the face: A randomized controlled blinded half ‐side comparison
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Dermoscopy and confocal microscopy: come together, right now?
British Journal of Dermatology

Katharsis of the skin: peeling applications and agents of chemical peelings in Greek medical textbooks of Graeco‐Roman antiquity
JEADV

Acne at the Regional Dermatology Training Centre (RDTC), Tanzania: clinical, social and demographic characteristics of patients with focus on severity factors
JEADV

Photoexposed skin, skin ageing, Bateman’s purpura and local vitamin C deficiency
JEADV

Standardized extract of wild apple fruit in alkyl‐polyglucoside‐based cosmetic cream – estimation of stability, safety, antioxidant activity and efficiency
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

KLHL16 degrades epidermal keratins
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

CCN1/Cyr61 stimulates melanogenesis through Integrin α6β1, p38 MAPK, and ERK1/2 signaling pathways in human epidermal melanocytes
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

#BeautyRecap: July 25th, 2018

Research and Technology

Transepidermal water loss in healthy adults: a systematic review and meta‐analysis update
British Journal of Dermatology

Chronic sun exposure is associated with histone acetylation changes
British Journal of Dermatology

Histone H3 acetylation is a conduit of gene expression perturbations in photodamaged skin
British Journal of Dermatology

Expression of vitamin D receptor in naevi and melanoma
British Journal of Dermatology

Long-term sheltering mustaches reduce incidence of lower lip actinic keratosis
JAAD

Sunscreen use and melanoma risk among young Australian adults
JAMA Dermatology

A comparison of tanning habits among gym tanners and other tanners
JAMA Dermatology

Effect of stress ball use or hand-holding on anxiety during skin cancer excision: A randomized clinical trial
JAMA Dermatology

Decision tree model vs traditional measures to identify patterns of sun-protective behaviors and sun sensitivity associated with sunburn
JAMA Dermatology

Light-sheet microscopy reveals site-specific 3-dimensional patterns of the cutaneous vasculature and pronounced rarefication in aged skin
Journal of Dermatological Science

Endocannabinoid tone regulates human sebocyte biology
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Facial wrinkles in Europeans: A genome-wide association study
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Wrinkles, brown spots, and cancer: Relationship between appearance and health‐based knowledge and sunscreen use
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Effect of a botanical cleansing lotion on skin sebum and erythema of the face: A randomized controlled blinded half‐side comparison
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Assessing the skin barrier via corneocyte morphometry
Experimental Dermatology

Noninvasive analysis and minimally invasive in vivo experimental challenges of the skin barrier
Experimental Dermatology

Intrinsic and extrinsic regulation of human skin melanogenesis and pigmentation
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Hair colour and skin colour together influence perceptions of age, health and attractiveness in lightly pigmented young women
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Photoexposed skin, skin ageing, Bateman’s purpura and local vitamin C deficiency
JEADV

Chemical peels in the treatment of acne: patient selection and perspectives
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Relations between epidermal barrier dysregulation and staphylococci-dominated microbiome dysbiosis in atopic dermatitis
Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology

Pre-treatment of extracellular water-soluble pigmented secondary metabolite of marine imperfect fungus protects HDF cells from UVB induced oxidative stress
Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences

The antibacterial effect in vitro of honey derived from various Danish flora
Dermatology Research and Practice

Socioeconomics of atopic dermatitis – can we afford new treatments?
Annals of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology

Atopic dermatitis in US adults – epidemiology, association with marital status and atopy
Annals of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology

A novel stilbene-like compound that reduces melanin through inhibiting melanocyte differentiation and proliferation without inhibiting tyrosinase
Cosmetics

Cytoprotection of antioxidant biocompounds from grape pomace: Further exfoliant phytoactive ingredients for cosmetic products
Cosmetics

Analysis of dyes in cosmetics: Challenges and recent developments
Cosmetics

Keratosis pilaris and its subtypes: Associations, new molecular and pharmacologic etiologies, and therapeutic options
American Journal of Clinical Dermatology

The eraser challenge — Self-inflicted friction injuries in a school child
Burns

#BeautyRecap: July 17th, 2018

Research and Technology

Red meat and processed meat intake and risk for cutaneous melanoma in white women and men: Two prospective cohort studies
JAAD

Diversity in dermatology: Roadmap for improvement
JAAD

In vitro assessment of the broad-spectrum ultraviolet protection of clothing
JAAD

Black dots in palmoplantar warts—challenging a concept: A histopathologic study
JAAD

The “dermatologist recommended” label: Is it meaningful?
JAAD

Modernizing regulation of cosmetic products: Reintroduction of the Personal Care Products Safety Act
JAAD

The role of sunscreen in the prevention of cutaneous melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancer
JAAD

Myths, truths, and clinical relevance of comedogenicity product labeling
JAMA Dermatology

Gua sha, or coining therapy
JAMA Dermatology

Stratum corneum analysis provide a minimal invasive tool to study immune response and skin barrier in atopic dermatitis children
British Journal of Dermatology

Correlates of positive parental attitudes towards adolescent indoor tanning in the united states
British Journal of Dermatology

In situ bio‐distribution and residency of a topical anti‐inflammatory using fluorescence lifetime imaging microscopy
British Journal of Dermatology

A Chinese herbal medicine preparation (PTQX) for children with moderate to severe atopic eczema: a pilot RCT
British Journal of Dermatology

The skin barrier: Epidermis versus environment
Experimental Dermatology

Full-thickness human skin-on-chip with enhanced epidermal morphogenesis and barrier function
Materials Today

Follicular penetration of caffeine from topically applied nanoemulsion formulations containing penetration enhancers: In vitro human skin studies
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology

Is oral omega-3 effective in reducing mucocutaneous side effects of isotretinoin in patients with acne vulgaris?
Dermatology Research and Practice

Clinical improvements in very dry skin from a natural ingredient-based moisturizing cream compared with a leading colloidal oatmeal control
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Novel topical cytokinin improves coarse wrinkles and skin roughness without skin irritation
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Moisturizers vs. barrier repair in the management of atopic dermatitis
Annals of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology

Knowledge and attitude of general population toward effects of sun exposure and use of sunscreens
Indian Journal of Dermatology

Factors aggravating or precipitating acne in Indian adults: A hospital-based study of 110 cases
Indian Journal of Dermatology

Bioactive compounds and health benefits of some palm species traditionally used in Africa and the Americas – A review
Journal of Ethnopharmacology

Red light-emitting diode irradiation regulates oxidative stress and inflammation through SPHK1/NF-κB activation in human keratinocytes
Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology

Phenotypic and lipidomic characterization of primary human epidermal keratinocytes exposed to simulated solar UV radiation
Journal of Dermatological Science

Chicken collagen hydrolysates differentially mediate anti-inflammatory activity and type I collagen synthesis on human dermal fibroblasts
Food Science and Human Wellness

Urban particulate matter in air pollution penetrates into the barrier-disrupted skin and produces ROS-dependent cutaneous inflammatory response in vivo

Anti-pollution or anti-particulate matter has become a huge buzzword in cosmetics. Pollution and particulate matter have been linked to many negative health effects (mainly cardiovascular) and while the link to skin health and acceleration of ageing are logical…does the data support it?

There have a been a few correlational studies that have shown that people living in areas with higher levels of pollution exhibit more signs of oxidative stress in skin lipids and some have even correlated it with increased wrinkling. But what’s the mechanism and can particulate matter even penetrate the skin?

A group of researchers from Seoul used an in vivo mouse and in vitro keratinocyte model to study this.

First was the collection of particulate matter from the air. To do this they set up a vinyl tarp on a rooftop near a busy intersection to collect dust. The particulate matter was then purified and separated to be used in the experiment. The majority of the particles ranged from 200 to 300 nm. Particulates found included: Naphthalene, biphenyl, acenaphthylene, acenaphthene, fluorene, dibenzothiophene, and 28 others identified.

For the in vitro portion of the experiment, cell cultures of human primary keratinocytes were performed with varying concentrations of the particulate matter. The cells absorbed the particulate matter, and the researchers found a concentration-dependent increase of inflammatory cytokine IL-8 and collagenase MMP-1. They also found that the addition of an antioxidant, n-acetyl cysteine, was able to suppress this effect.

In the in vivo portion of the experiment, the researchers used mice that did not produce melanin and divided them into two skin conditions: One with their skin intact, and another with barrier-damaged skin. To damage the skin barrier they stripped the skin 10 times with tape to remove layers of the stratum corneum. The particulate matter was applied 10 times over 2 weeks and included a skin penetration enhancer (DMSO).

While the in vitro results may be “scary”, the in vivo results were milder. Particulate matter was shown to penetrate into the intercellular space of the barrier-disrupted mice, but not the intact mice. Particulate matter was found in hair follicles of both, but there was no epidermal penetration of the particulate matter in the intact mice.

The researchers did find an increase in inflammation in the particulate matter treated skin compared to skin not exposed- whether or not the sin was intact or tape-stripped. However, the inflammation was much more severe in the tape-stripped group. The researchers also showed that intradermal n-acetyl cysteine was able to ameliorate the increase in inflammation caused by particulate matter, but they did not perform this portion of the experiment on the intact mice. It’s likely this same treatment will have a similar effect in the intact mice, but it is unknown.

The researchers also point out some issues with their own experiment: The concentration of particulate matter may not reflect the amount that a person would be exposed to and that their sampling of particulate matter had a high concentration of sulfur which may be unique to their location. It’s also important to remember that mice are not humans, and we may react differently.

While it’s likely that the addition of anti-inflammatories and antioxidants may help attenuate some of the potential inflammation caused by pollution and particulate matter, it’s unknown which chemicals and what combinations are most effective for humans. There’s also no standard measurement to gauge a protective effect so it is impossible to compare one product to another. Again, we see another case of the marketing being ahead of the science.

Source: Jin Seon-Pil, Li Zhenyu, Choi Eun Kyung, Lee Serah,
Kim Yoen Kyung, Seo Eun Young, Chung Jin Ho, Cho Soyun.Urban particulate
matter in air pollution penetrates into the barrier-disrupted skin and produces ROSdependent
cutaneous inflammatory response in vivo.Journal of Dermatological Science
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdermsci.2018.04.015