#BeautyRecap: October 16th, 2018

Products and Reviews

Target’s Smartly offers personal care products under $2 USD
Allure.com, TeenVogue.com

A look at Pat McGrath Labs’ upcoming holiday collection
Allure.com

A review of Elta MD’s UV Replenish Broad-Spectrum SPF 44
Allure.com

Anastasia Beverly Hills to increase prices of their palettes
Allure.com

A review of the Fixy Makeup Repair Kit
Allure.com

A look at the BTS and VT Cosmetics collaboration
TeenVogue.com

Revolution Beauty launches its ‘Blood of My Enemies’ highlighter
TeenVogue.com

SPKTRM Beauty launches with unretouched and inclusive beauty campaign
TeenVogue.com

A review of the Dyson Airwrap hair styler
Glamour.com

Dove becomes certified as cruelty-free by PETA
Glamour.com

Review of the House of 99 Sharp Cut Shaving Stick
TeenVogue.com

Leave-in conditioners recommended by natural hair beauty bloggers
Glamour.com

Starbucks and SkinnyDip London collaborate on Pumpkin Spice Latte nail decals
TeenVogue.com

15 pore-minimizing products recommended by Teen Vogue
TeenVogue.com

11 pumpkin skincare products recommended by Allure
Allure.com

Teen Vogue editors pick their favourite foundations
TeenVogue.com

Vogue recommends moisturizers for the Fall to Winter transition
Vogue.com

Retailers and Trends

Unilever announces support for global ban on animal-tested cosmetics
TeenVogue.com, Allure.com

Herbal Essences plans to make its packaging more accessible for those with low to no vision
TeenVogue.com

Skincare and Beauty

Inspired by Princess Eugenie, women share stories of their surgical scars
Glamour.com

Dermatologists weigh in on whether or not smiling causes wrinkles
Allure.com

Dermatologists weigh in on whether or not you should use separate towels for your face and body
Allure.com

Four women of different hair types share their beauty routines
Elle.com

14 skincare tips that transformed their skin from different Glamour editors
Glamour.com

10 cornrow hairstyle ideas from GuinGui
Elle.com

A look at which cosmetic procedures are trending by US state
Glamour.com

The best hair, makeup, and skincare trends for Fall selected by Elle
Elle.com

People of different ages share how they wear glitter
Allure.com

Woman’s breast implant becomes infected with salmonella
Allure.com

Celebrities and Interviews

Chrissy Teigen talks about her new collaboration with Becca Cosmetics
Allure.com

Makeup artist Sarah Tanno and hair stylist Frederic Aspiras share their routine for Lady Gaga in ‘A Star is Born’
Elle.com

Troye Sivan shares his beauty routine
Vogue.com

Are Kylie Jenner’s lip fillers back?
WMagazine.com, Glamour.com, TeenVogue.com

Jeffree Star responds to claims of cultural appropriation for wearing cornrows
TeenVogue.com

Research and Technology

Myths, truths, and clinical relevance of comedogenicity product labeling
JAMA

Increasing minority representation in the dermatology department
JAMA

Self-reported patient motivations for seeking cosmetic procedures
JAMA

Sunscreen applied at 2mg/cm2 during a sunny holiday prevents erythema; a biomarker of UVR‐induced DNA damage and suppression of acquired immunity
BJD

Androgens in women: Androgen mediated skin disease and patient evaluation (Part I)
JAAD

Androgens in women: Hormone modulating therapies for skin disease (Part II)
JAAD

Transforming acne care by pediatricians: An interventional cohort study
JAAD

Deficiency of sun protection advertising exists in consumer magazines across demographic groups and varies by target demographic
JAAD

Re-evaluating the need for routine laboratory monitoring in isotretinoin patients: A retrospective analysis
JAAD

Anti-aging efficacy of melatonin-based cream: Clinical and instrumental skin evaluation
Cosmetics

Comparison the effects of topical application of olive and calendula ointments on Children’s diaper dermatitis: A triple-blind randomized clinical trial
Dermatologic Therapy

Allergic contact dermatitis caused by nickel in an eyebrow pencil
Contact Dermatitis

Comprehensive mapping of human body skin hydration: A pilot study
Skin Research & Technology

Effects of oral supplementation with FOS and GOS prebiotics in women with adult acne: the “S.O. Sweet” study: a proof-of-concept pilot trial
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Can emollients of similar composition be assumed to be therapeutically equivalent: a comparison of skin occlusivity and emulsion microstructure
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Influence of the emollient on emulsions containing lamellar liquid crystals: from molecular organization towards applicative properties
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Linagliptin inhibits high glucose‐induced trans‐differentiation of hypertrophic scar-derived fibroblasts to myofibroblasts via IGF/AKT/mTOR signaling pathway
Experimental Dermatology

Evaluating the role of small particle hyaluronic acid fillers using micro-droplet technique in the face, neck and hands: a retrospective chart review
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

ASAP inhalation and dermal uptake of particle and gas-phase phthalates —a human exposure study
Environmental Science & Technology

Postpartum stretchmarks: Repairing activity of an oral centella asiatica supplementation (Centellicum)
Minerva Ginecologica

Melanocyte activation and skin barrier disruption induced in melasma patients after 1064 nm Nd:YAG laser treatment
Lasers in Medical Science

On the role of epigallocatechin-3-gallate in protecting phospholipid molecules against UV irradiation
Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces

Epidermal barrier function in healthy black South African infants compared with adults
Pediatric Dermatology

Sunscreens are no harmless substitutes for mindful behavior under the sun
Dermatologic Therapy

Formulating O/W emulsions with plant-based actives: A stability challenge for an effective product
Cosmetics

Impact of face proportions on face attractiveness
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Clinical evaluation of the lightening effect of cytidine on hyperpigmented skin
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Use of stem cells in wound healing
Current Dermatology Reports

Use of a novel 589‐nm solid‐state laser for treatment of facial erythema
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Effects of a new topical treatment containing several hair growth promoters in women with early female pattern hair loss
Skin Appendage Disorders

#BeautyRecap: October 2nd, 2018

Products and Reviews

PÜR unveils a ‘The Grinch’ inspired makeup collection
TeenVogue.com

TonyMoly and Monsta X collaborate on lip tints
Allure.com

A look at new launches from Curology
VeryGoodLight.com

Juicy Couture launches a makeup line
TeenVogue.com, Allure.com

A review of the Tatcha The Kissu Lip Mask
Glamour.com

A review of the Laneige Fresh Calming Mousse Moisturizer
Glamour.com

A look at the Origins Blooming Lipstick collection
Allure.com

A look at elf’s BeautyScape influencer inspired makeup collection
Elle.com

A look at Shiseido’s Kajal InkArtist eyeliner in Azuki Red
Allure.com

A look at KKW Beauty’s Kim Kardashian birthday collection
Allure.com

Sugarpill launches two Halloween-themed lipsticks
Allure.com

Kylie Cosmetics teases two new eyeshadow palettes
Allure.com

Hot Topic releases a ‘Beetlejuice’ inspired eyeshadow palette
TeenVogue.com

Lipslut unveils its ‘F*ck Kavanaugh’ lipstick with proceeds going to anti-sexual assault organizations
TeenVogue.com, Elle.com

Miss Fame launches a makeup collection
Allure.com

Huda Beauty launches the New Nudes eyeshadow palette
Allure.com

A look at the Too Faced Pumpkin Spice makeup collection
Allure.com, TeenVogue.com

Lush announces their 2018 Holiday collection
TeenVogue.com

Best new makeup launches coming in October selected by Sable Yong of Allure
Allure.com

Best new skincare launches coming in October selected by Sarah Kinonen of Allure
Allure.com

21 Latinx people share their relationships with red lipstick
TeenVogue.com

12 ballerinas recommend foot creams
Glamour.com

9 best new fall skincare products recommended by Vogue
Vogue.com

Chloe Hall of Elle tests different glitter masks
Elle.com

Dermatologists recommend eye creams
NewBeauty.com

Kaleigh Fasanella of Allure shares their experience of using a water softener in the shower
Allure.com

Fall beauty trends to try, recommended by Zoe Weiner of Teen Vogue
TeenVogue.com

Best winter moisturizers for every skin type recommended by Elle
Elle.com

10 face masks recommended by Vogue
Vogue.com

A look at Paris’ Hôtel Lutetia Akasha spa
Vogue.com

Retailers and Trends

“Why are mascara names so damn thirsty?” by Sable Yong of Allure
Allure.com

Sephora begins selling mystery bags
TeenVogue.com, Allure.com

A look at the “skincare diet” the antithesis to the 10 step beauty routine
Allure.com

California governor Jerry Brown signs bill banning the sale of animal-tested cosmetics
TeenVogue.com

Skincare and Beauty

Ashley Blue DeFrancesco uses ice as her makeup primer
TeenVogue.com, Allure.com

iPhone XS users say the front-facing camera automatically airbrushes selfies
Allure.com

Mario Dedivanovic’s tips for applying false eyelashes
Allure.com

A look at washing your face with carbonated water by Marci Robin of Allure
Allure.com

32 beauty secrets from Vogue
Vogue.com

Skincare tips for your neck by Sarah Ferguson of Elle
Elle.com

A look at TruSCulpt iD, the 15-minute body-sculpting treatment
Allure.com

How to treat and prevent broken capillaries by Macaela Mackenzie of Allure
Allure.com

Why Devon Abelman of Allure loves wearing pimple patches in public
Allure.com

How makeup artists get their clients’ full bodies ready for the red carpet
Elle.com

Celebrities and Interviews

Jackie Aina calls out Jeffree Star for his racist behaviour
TeenVogue.com

Tylynn Nguyen shares her $6,000 USD a year beauty routine
Glamour.com

Makeup artist Pati Dubroff shares her beauty tips
WMagazine.com

Lady Gaga had to smuggle makeup onto the set of ‘A Star is Born’
WMagazine.com

Olympic athlete Chloe Kim talks about beauty
Glamour.com

Lila Reinhart shares the beauty routine she uses to get ready for ‘Riverdale’
TeenVogue.com

Research and Technology

Camp Sun Safe: A community level sun safety intervention
JAAD

Action of surfactants on the mammal epidermal skin barrier
Giornale Italiano di Dermatologia e Venereologia

Clinical evaluation of an antiperspirant for hyperhidrosis
Giornale Italiano di Dermatologia e Venereologia

Efficacy of oral tranexamic acid in refractory melasma: A clinico–immuno-histopathological study
Dermatologic Therapy

Durability of an advanced skin protectant compared with other commercially available products in healthy human volunteers
Wounds

The effects of amniotic membrane stem cell-conditioned medium on photoaging
Journal of Dermatological Treatment

Tanning, selfies and social media
The Australasian Journal of Dermatology

Should we instruct patients to rub topical agents into skin?: The evidence
Journal of Dermatological Treatment

Beyond photoaging: additional factors involved in the process of skin aging
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Effect of N-(2-aminoethyl) ethanolamine on hypertrophic scarring changes in vitro: Finding novel anti-fibrotic therapies
Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology

Cosmeceutical potential of geranium and calendula essential oil: Determination of antioxidant activity and in vitro sun protection factor
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Hidden metals in several brands of lipstick and face powder present on Polish market
Cosmetics

Agro-industrial by-products and their bioactive compounds—an ally against oxidative stress and skin aging
Cosmetics

Hair strengthening evaluation of anisotropic osmolyte solutions (Inositol + Arginine): Cross-talk between dermal papilla fibroblast and keratinocytes of the outer root sheath using a µhair follicle 3D model
Cosmetics

#BeautyRecap: September 25th, 2018

Products and Reviews

Tonymoly and Samyang spicy ramen collaborate on makeup collection
Allure.com, TeenVogue.com

A review of Chanel’s Boy de Chanel makeup line
VeryGoodLight.com

Colourpop to release a Disney Princess collection
Elle.com, Allure.com, TeenVogue.com

A look at Smith & Cult’s Blackdrop black makeup primer
Glamour.com

A look at Two Lips, a sheet mask designed for the vulva
Allure.com

A look at Wet n’ Wild’s MegaGlo Body Luminizer
Allure.com

Fenty launches new Stunna Lip Paint in the shade Uncuffed
TeenVogue.com, Allure.com, Glamour.com

Anastasia Beverly Hills to launch Sultry eyeshadow palette
Allure.com

A look at different jelly beauty products from brands like Farsali and Colourpop
Allure.com

7 pro surfers recommend hair conditioners
Glamour.com

Latinx-owned beauty brands recommended by Teen Vogue
TeenVogue.com

A look at new beauty products recommended by Vogue’s beauty director
Vogue.co.uk

10 best cellulite creams based on Amazon reviews
Elle.com

Retailers and Trends

Botanica Bazaar opens up in Los Angeles
Vogue.com

MAC releases Manifesto video with no ring lights, retouching, or filters
Vogue.co.uk

“The ‘natural’ beauty industry is on the rise because we’re scared of chemicals”
Vox.com

“What the rise of men’s makeup means for masculinity”
Vox.com

Skincare and Beauty

What causes mold to grow in skincare products?
Allure.com

6 aestheticians share their skincare tips
Allure.com

3 things you don’t know about Vitamin C but should
NewBeauty.com

Tips on treating ear acne
Allure.com

Yana Sheptovetskaya of Gelcream shares her tips for beautiful hands
Vogue.co.uk

Fumni Fetto’s recommendations for treating hyperpigmentation
Vogue.co.uk

9 women share their experiences with their natural hair and the “big chop”
Elle.com, TeenVogue.com

Could dryer sheets and fabric softener cause acne?
NewBeauty.com, TeenVogue.com, Allure.com

What is EMSculpt? A look at the body-contouring treatment
Allure.com

How Maureen Choi’s mother’s 5-step Korean beauty routine changed her skin
Glamour.com

A look at zinc supplements for treating acne
Allure.com

An interview with makeup artist Lottie
Allure.com

How makeup artist Rocio Cervantes makes acne part of her beauty look
TeenVogue.com

Hoyeon Jung, AmorePacific spokesperson, showcases Jeju island
Vogue.com

Celebrities and Interviews

How Jackie Aina determines whether a beauty brand is inclusive or not
Bustle.com

Ai Saotome, founder of Koh Gen Do, shares her facial massage techniques
Bustle.com

Adwoa Aboah shares her thoughts on beauty
Vogue.co.uk

Makeup artist Patrick Ta talks about trends and differences in Japanese and North American beauty
Allure.com

Gemma Chan shares her beauty routine
Allure.com

Erika La Pearl, Cardi B’s makeup artist, shares some of her beauty and makeup secrets
GlamourMagazine.co.uk

Imaan Hammam shares her beauty routine
Vogue.com

Hung Vanngo, Selena Gomez’s makeup artist, shares his beauty and makeup tips
TeenVogue.com

Amandla Stenberg talks about the issues stylists have had with her natural hair
Glamour.com

Research and Technology

Epidermal maturation, vitamin C and hyaluronan metabolism
BJD

Hyaluronan metabolism enhanced during epidermal differentiation is suppressed by vitamin C
BJD

Mineral sunscreens not recommended by Consumer Reports: What lies beneath the surface?
JAAD

A novel topical minocycline foam for the treatment of moderate-to-severe acne vulgaris: Results of two randomized, double-blind, phase 3 studies
JAAD

Clinical efficacy of a novel two-part skincare system on pollution-induced skin damage
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

A single site, open-label clinical trial, evaluating the duration, efficacy, and safety of a novel lip plumper
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Evaluation of men’s trends and experiences in aesthetic treatment
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face study of the efficacy of topical epidermal growth factor for the treatment of melasma
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Assessing the potential role for topical melatonin in an anti-aging skin regimen
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Once-daily oral Sarecycline 1.5 mg/Kg/Day is effective for moderate to severe acne vulgaris: Results from two identically designed, phase 3, randomized, double-blind clinical trials
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

A comparative analysis of electric and radiofrequency microneedling devices on the market
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Facial volumetric structural rejuvenation: A natural approach to restoring youthfulness and preventing aging
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Fractional sunburn threshold UVR doses generate equivalent Vitamin D and DNA damage in skin types I–VI but with epidermal DNA damage gradient correlated to skin darkness
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Antiseptic agents elicit short-term, personalized, and body site-specific shifts in resident skin bacterial communities
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Low dose daily aspirin reduces topical minoxidil efficacy in androgenetic alopecia patients
Dermatologic Therapy

Efficacy of an agonist of α‐MSH, the palmitoyl tetrapeptide‐20, in hair pigmentation
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

The physical and chemical disruption of human hair after bleaching – studies by transmission electron microscopy and redox proteomics
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Seasonal aggravation of acne in summers and the effect of temperature and humidity in a study in a tropical setting
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

In vivo dynamic thermal imaging of skin radiofrequency treatment
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Comparison of novel dual-mode vs conventional single pass of a 1450 ‐nm diode laser in the treatment of acne vulgaris for Korean patients: A 20‐week prospective, randomized, split‐face study
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Antioxidant properties of ferulic acid and its possible application
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology

Anti-aging effects of select botanicals: Scientific evidence and current trends
Cosmetics

Anti-aging properties of plant stem cell extracts
Cosmetics

A quick look at collagen

Collagen, you’ve seen it in your skincare products and have probably eaten it at some point (Yay for artificially-coloured and jiggly gelatin). But what is it?

Collagen is composed of a triple helix, three strands of proteins made up of joined amino acids wrapped around each other. The main amino acid constituents of these proteins are glycine, proline, hydroxyproline, lysine, and hydroxylysine. The unique chemical structure of the amino acids helps form the shape and structure that their compounds make.

There are many types of collagen, which differ in their amino acid composition. Type I collagen is the most abundant in the human body, and Type I, III, IV, and others are found in our skin. In our body, multiple strands of collagen are found bundled together in fibrils.

You may have heard that ascorbic acid or Vitamin C is crucial in the formation of collagen, but how? Ascorbic acid is used in the conversion of proline to hydroxyproline along with oxygen, and alpha-ketoglutarate. The reaction is catalyzed or sped up by the enzyme prolyl hydroxylase and an iron. Similarly, it is needed in the hydroxylation of lysine to hydroxylysine by the enzyme lysyl hydroxylase.

Collagens are naturally glycosylated, meaning they have sugar molecules bound to them – they are found attached to the lysine and hydroxylysine molecules by the enzymes galactosyltransferase and glucosyltransferase. While this glycosylation is not fully understood, they seem important in forming and retaining the structure of the collagen. You may have heard of glycation or advanced glycation endproducts (AGEs), this happens when excessive sugar molecules are bound to the collagen non-enzymatically and can affect its structure, function, and flexibility.

The additional -OH (hydroxy) group on the hydroxyproline helps water molecules bind tightly to collagen. The coiled structure of collagen’s triple helix gives it impressive tensile strength and allows it to stretch when forces are applied. When too much force is applied the triple helix structure can become disorganized and damaged, no longer able to return to its triple helix form.

Experiments, where collagen was exposed to UV radiation in vitro, have shown that free radicals generated from the UV energy can cleave or break apart some of the bonds holding the amino acids together. When enough bonds are broken the triple helix structure can no longer be maintained and the collagen fibre loses its shape and function. Adding ascorbic acid to the solution of collagen, when it was exposed to UV, reduced some of the free radicals produced – leading to fewer bonds breaking and structure disruption. This may highlight one of the ways naturally present antioxidants in the skin help us defend against the environment.

N. Metreveli, L. Namicheishvili, K. Jariashvili, G. Mrevlishvili, A. Sionkowska. Mechanisms of the influence of UV irradiation on collagen and collagen-ascorbic acid solutions. International Journal of Photoenergy (2006), DOI: 10.1155/IJP/2006/76830

Duer Research Group. Collagen glycation and diabetes. Website, URL: https://www.ch.cam.ac.uk/group/duer/research/collagen-glycation-and-diabetes

A. Masic, L. Bertinetti, R. Schuetz, S.W. Chang, T.H. Metzger, M.J. Buehler, P. Fratzl. Osmotic pressure induced tensile forces in tendon collagen. Nature Communications (2015), DOI: 10.1038/ncomms6942

J.M. Waller, H.I. Maibach. ge and skin structure and function, a quantitativeapproach (II): protein, glycosaminoglycan, water, andlipid content and structure. Skin Research and Technology (2006), DOI: 10.1111/j.0909-752X.2006.00146.x

#BeautyRecap: September 18th, 2018

Products and Reviews

Allure announces the 2018 Best of Beauty winners
Allure.com

KKW Beauty announces Cherry Blossom makeup collection
Allure.com

A look at the Wet n Wild Fantasy Makers Halloween makeup collection
Allure.com, TeenVogue.com

A review of the Summer Fridays Overtime Mask
TeenVogue.com

OPI brings back 9 “Fan Favourite” shades of nail polish
Byrdie.com

a look at the Kylie x Jordyn Makeup Collection
Allure.com, TeenVogue.com

MAC to launch Powder Kiss moisturizing matte lipsticks in October 2018
Allure.com

A comparison of the new Glossier Perfecting Skin Tint with the old formula
Allure.com

A look at Madbeauty’s Disney Villain sheet masks
TeenVogue.com

A review of the Megababe Rosy Pits natural deodorant
Glamour.com

A look at the 2018 Too Faced Holiday makeup collection
Allure.com

Too Faced launches Better Than Sex mascara vault
TeenVogue.com

6 beauty products recommended by Elle Canada
ElleCanada.com

12 luxury moisturizers recommended by Allure
Allure.com

8 acne patches recommended by Glamour
Glamour.com

9 drugstore highlighters recommended by Allure
Allure.com

9 liquid eyeshadows recommended by Allure
Allure.com

Products recommended for the Summer to Fall transition by David Yi
VeryGoodLight.com

Foundations for people with yellow and golden undertones recommended by Allure
Allure.com

Retailers and Trends

So who’s winning the Korean beauty e-commerce war? by Kai Proschan
VeryGoodLight.com

Rihanna celebrates 1 year anniversary of Fenty Beauty
TeenVogue.com, Allure.com

A look at Eco + Amour, a low-waste beauty store in Toronto
CosmeticsDesign.com

The Detox Market opens in New York
Vogue.com

A look at the effect Fenty Beauty has had on the makeup industry
Glamour.com

Gucci Beauty launches an Instagram account
Elle.com

Skincare and Beauty

Is an FDA crackdown on probiotic products coming? by Brittany Burhop Fallon
NewBeauty.com

Allergan acquires Bonti makers of a shorter-acting neuromodulator EB-001
NewBeauty.com

Coconut oil for acne? Learn how it can help clear your skin by Sable Yong
TeenVogue.com

What’s the deal with beauty ampoules? by Victoria DiPlacido
ElleCanada.com

The truth about drinking collagen supplements for better skin by Kaleigh Fasanella
Allure.com

Sarah Kinonen details her experience at the Tata Harper Spa in France
Allure.com

New Mexico officials warning people who received PRP at a clinic to get tested for bloodborne diseases
TeenVogue.com, Allure.com, NewBeauty.com

Emily Amick walks through many different types of mascara
Allure.com

These “salt and pepper” lash extensions are Instagram’s unexpected way to get fuller-looking lashes by Devon Abelman
Allure.com

Everything you need to know before you make an eyelash extension appointment by Chloe Hall
Elle.com

A beauty lover’s guide to the Lower East Side by Victoria DiPlacido
ElleCanada.com

Male student gets suspended from high school for wearing makeup
TeenVogue.com

Celebrities and Interviews

An interview with Sonoya Mizuno about beauty ideals
Glamour.com

Lili Reinhart talks about how acne can trigger her body dysmorphia
TeenVogue.com

BareMinerals taps Hailey Baldwin and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley as new faces
Elle.com, TeenVogue.com

Joey King shares her beauty routine for TIFF 2018
TeenVogue.com

Aly Raisman, Jackie Aina walked a makeup-free runway show for Olay
Elle.com, Glamour.com

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler talk about their collaboration with Lancome
Allure.com

Rowan Blanchard says wearing makeup is “a costume”
TeenVogue.com

An interview with Dreamcatcher
Allure.com

Companies and Outreach

Faber-Castell to open facility in Illinois
CosmeticsDesign.com

Huda Kattan ‘not interested’ in an IPO
ArabianBusiness.com

Shiseido CEO Masahiko Uotani explains why the cosmetics giant buys start-ups
CNBC.com

Research and Technology

Sunscreen use and melanoma risk among young Australian adults
JAMA Dermatology

Evaluation of a brief dermatologist-delivered intervention vs usual care on sun protection behavior
JAMA Dermatology

A comparison of tanning habits among gym tanners and other tanners
JAMA Dermatology

Characteristics and skin cancer risk behaviors of us adult sunless tanners
JAMA Dermatology

Facial-aging app availability in waiting rooms as a potential opportunity for skin cancer prevention
JAMA Dermatology

Association between Mediterranean anti-inflammatory dietary profile and severity of psoriasis
JAMA Dermatology

Variation in daily ultraviolet light exposure and sun protection behaviours of melanoma survivors: an observational single-arm pilot study with a wearable sensor
BJD

Short‐term exposure of human sebocytes to 13‐cis‐retinoic acid induces acnegenic changes
BJD

An explanation for the mysterious distribution of melanin in human skin: a rare example of asymmetric (melanin) organelle distribution during mitosis of basal layer progenitor keratinocytes
BJD

Adverse cutaneous reactions to skin care products on the face vary with age, but not with sex
Contact Dermatitis

Melanoma-prone families: new evidence of distinctive clinical and histological features of melanomas in CDKN2A mutation carriers
Archives of Dermatological Research

Spironolactone depletes the XPB protein and inhibits DNA damage responses in UVB-irradiated human skin
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Associations among two vitamin D receptor (VDR) gene polymorphisms (ApaI and TaqI) in acne vulgaris: A pilot susceptibility study
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Combination chemical peels are more effective than single chemical peel in treatment of mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris: A split-face comparative clinical trial
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Anti‐inflammatory and antiradical effects of a 2% diosmin cream in a human skin organ culture as model
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Clinical and confocal evaluation of avenanthramides-based daily cleansing and emollient cream in pediatric population affected by atopic dermatitis and xerosis
Giornale Italiano di Dermatologia e Venereologia

Comparative evaluation between two nutritional supplements in the improvement of telogen effluvium
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Polymorphisms in P53 and VEGFA genes in different subtypes of periorbital hyperpigmentation in a Malaysian Chinese population
Australasian Journal of Dermatology

Calprotectin can play an inflammatory role in acne vulgaris
Advances in Dermatology and Allergology

Impact of inorganic UV filters contained in sunscreen products on tropical stony corals (Acropora spp.)
Science of the Total Environment

Low dose stingless bee honey increases viability of human dermal fibroblasts that could potentially promote wound healing
Wound Medicine

A frog cathelicidin peptide effectively promotes cutaneous wound healing in mice
Biochemical Journal

The enzyme lysozyme and xanthan gum

These are crystals of lysozyme, an enzyme which can break apart cell wall peptidoglycan of certain bacteria. It is part of our and other animals’ immune systems. Lysozyme is more effective against gram-positive bacteria, as gram-negative bacteria have additional cell membranes that make it harder for the lysozyme to reach the peptidoglycan.

Lysozyme is often used in the processing of xanthan gum. Xanthomonas campestris, a gram-negative bacteria, produce an exopolysaccharide which is a gooey, thick, and sticky slime. This slime may help the bacteria create a comfortable environment for itself and also act as camouflage from other organism’s immune systems.

The slime (aka xanthan gum) is used in cosmetics because it imparts viscosity, lubricity, and acts as a humectant water-binding film former. It also increases the yield stress of water, meaning things suspended in it don’t settle as fast. “Raw” xanthan gum can resemble snot and be cloudy.

In a series of processing steps, the Xanthomonas campestris’ cells are stripped of their membranes and broken apart – this can be done by heating in alkaline water then by treatment with lysozyme and protease. The xanthan gum becomes less gloopy and crystal clear.

Lysozyme can be sourced from a variety of things, but most commonly hen egg whites. It’s not often clear what the source of lysozyme is, so depending on the transparency of the supplier, it’s possible that products labelled ‘Vegan’ may have used animal lysozyme treated xanthan gum.

Plant-based lysozymes do exist, but their structures and functions often differ from animal lysozymes. Genetically modified organisms have been created to produce lysozymes more closely resembling animal lysozymes, but GMOs can be an issue for those who choose vegan products.

I first encountered this conundrum during a meeting with a supplier when they were promoting their vegan xanthan gum, which was slightly less clear than their regular grades. I’d always assumed xanthan gum was vegan, since it was made from bacteria. Sadly, the product line has been discontinued, but one of the largest chemical companies in the world recently launched a clear vegan xanthan gum that’s also GMO-free.

To see more images of lysozyme crystals, check out Dr. Kalju Kahn’s gallery created by students at UCSB.