Category: Blog

…your thoughts on the benefits of astaxanthin (taken orally or applied topically) for hyperpigmentation?, which sunscreens do you use (do you use any Canadian brands?), steps non-cosmetic-chemists should take to be more informed, and what your skin care routine is like. Sorry for the barrage!

Hi battleofhe-s, thanks again for the questions!

I’m going to try to post more often, at least weekly. I’ve also setup a Twitter account at @kindofstephen.

There’s only a few (maybe only one) studies that have shown astaxanthin is beneficial for hyperpigmentation, and only topically. It’s believed that astaxanthin helps reduce some processes induced in the skin by UVB exposure. However, most pigmentation of the skin is caused by UVA exposure. I’d still prefer a person use a well formulated sunscreen that offers similar UVA and UVB protection. Orally, carotenes like astaxanthin and beta carotene can tint the skin yellow/orange which may provide a masking effect. They can also provide a UVB protective effect when taken orally, but again does not replace a sunscreen. Astaxanthin is quite expensive, and beta carotene functions similarly (as does lycopene) and can be found in supplements and foods like sweet potato, carrots, dark leafy vegetables. An insane amount can be found in a Southeast Asian fruit called gac, but I’ve never been able to find it 🙁

I actually use a Canadian sunscreen! From L’Oreal’s brand Ombrelle. Ombrelle was originally independent, but was acquired by L’Oreal at some point in the 90s – I believe. Anyways, Ombrelle uses many next-generation sunscreens like Mexoryl XL and Mexoryl SX. I use the Ombrelle Kids Water Resistant Lotion SPF 60. Ombrelle Complete Lotion SPF 60 is also a great one. The sunscreens are thick and aren’t great for humid days due to the high glycerin content, but I’ve learned to manage. I do have a Bioderma Photoderm MAX Spray SPF 50+ that I will spray into my hands then apply to my face for days where I really don’t want to look shiny at all. I’m not sure if it’s available locally in Canada though, I ordered mine online (or have friends bring it back from Europe).

Look for high levels of drometrizole trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL) and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (Mexoryl SX) in L’Oreal brands (as they have it patented) and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Bemotrizinol, Tinosorb S, or Escalol S) and bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (Bisoctrizole or Tinosorb M).

Brands available in Canada that have next-generation sunscreens include Bioderma, Avene, La Roche Posay, and Vichy.

Ombrelle is still the most economical one I’ve found and you can often find $3 CAD coupons online.

I think the best thing a non-chemist can do to help understand all the information available now is to take a MOOC. A first year undergraduate course in organic chemistry will help you understand the reactions, structures, and nomenclature that can often be daunting or confusing. The University of Berkeley also has a great anatomy course that covers the integumentary system available on iTunes (Lectures 43 and 44).

I currently use a micellar water (diluted low-foam surfactant solution) to cleanse my face, and an oil based (oil and surfactant solution) to cleanse my body. Then sunscreen. I also use prescription retinoids, but rotate that with 10% vitamin C and 4% niacinamide – as I am prone to hyperpigmentation.

I’m also constantly testing out new ingredients and formulations, which often means that my skin can be irritated. This is why I try to keep my regular routine quite simple!

 …on Wiki and in a BASF PDF, I see it listed as having peak protection ~350 nm. This means it protects in the UVAI part of the spectrum. However, skinacea lists it as protecting from UVAII (which it still does cover). Does this imply that it’s inadequate in UVAI protection? Also, how weary should I be of the BASF ppd estimator? There are some Ombrelle sunscreens I want to try, but no labelled ppd (I wish they’d use ppd 🙁 ). Thanks!

Hi battleofthe-s,

Protection offered by sunscreens occurs on a curve, UVA II is 320 to 340 nm and UVA I is 340 to 400nm.

While the peak of Uvinul A Plus (DHHB) is in the 350nm region, it still offers protection in the 320 to 340 nm area. As well as beyond the 350 nm peak.

UVB sunscreens also tend to extend into the UVA I region, and since most sunscreens contain a mixture of UVA and UVB filters, you should be well covered.

However, there is a lack of sunscreens that have a peak in the 320 nm to 340 nm range, and there are newer ones being developed to target that area – unfortunately they don’t have approval anywhere yet.

The BASF Sunscreen Simulator is for formulation use only. The only way to know the UVAPF or UVB protection offered by a sunscreen is to test it on a human panel, or in vitro for UVAPF (COLIPA Method).

You can have two identical sunscreens, but due to differences in production have an SPF of 5 or 50. The distribution of sunscreen chemicals in the product is really important for sunscreens, as well other ingredients can increase or reduce the efficacy of a sunscreen.

Unfortunately the simulator can’t account for those.

Hi theaomai, thanks for the question!

There’s a misconception that sunscreen needs to “bind” with your skin cells in order to activate protection. This is a myth for both physical (inorganic) and chemical (organic) sunscreens. 

The chemicals themselves absorb the UV wavelengths, not the skin cells – what’s important is that the sunscreen is able to form an even layer on the skin. 

Too much oil on the skin, could prevent a sunscreen from forming an even layer, just by virtue of being greasy and by preventing the sunscreen from drying or applying smoothly. Same goes with wet skin. 

If you can still move the sunscreen on the skin after you’ve applied it, that means over time gravity will pull more sunscreen into the crevices of your skin – making the sunscreen coverage uneven. Not to mention it’ll be more easily wiped off!

I would recommend gently blotting any excess oil off the skin before applying your sunscreen.

Hope that helps! 

For example, why does tretinoin cream require a prescription while retinol does not? I realize the easy answer is because “the FDA says so,” but I don’t really understand how one could abuse tretinoin, even though it is more potent, and so I don’t understand *why* the FDA says so. Lobbying? Patents? Random? Thanks!

Hi Jechristine, sorry it’s taken so long to get to these questions!

This is a great question and what you need to look at is the regulations of what the FDA considers a “cosmetic” vs. a “drug”.

http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/GuidanceRegulation/LawsRegulations/ucm074201.htm

The main thing that differentiates the two is the claims that the product can make. For example tretinoin can claim to treat acne as well as photoageing.

Even though retinol is a similar compound and may have similar effects as tretinoin, can’t claim the same. This is because retinol hasn’t been submitted for drug approval.

If a company wants to make claims like treating acne or treating photoageing for a retinol product, they’d have to submit it as a new drug. This would involve conducting human clinical trials to establish efficacy and data, just like any drug the FDA considers for approval. This is a lengthy and costly process.

Keeping to acne treatments, benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, and sulfur are approved by the FDA to treat acne. An over-the-counter product with these active ingredients can make the claim that it treats acne. Other acne treatment ingredients without FDA approval can only allude to treating acne, but can’t directly claim it.

This is why a lot of the marketing copy on cosmetics are very flimsy or elude to a treatment. “Purify skin” vs. “Acne treatment”.

This isn’t just for cosmetics. For example, you have prescription fish oil supplements and over-the-counter ones. The company manufacturing the prescription fish oil supplements submitted it as a new drug, and went through the process to get it approved as a treatment for a condition. They can make claims that over the counter fish oil supplements are unable to.

Under the FDA regulations any cosmetic that claims to alter or change the functioning of the skin, treat or cure a disease, or provide photoprotection is no longer a cosmetic – but a drug, and requires all the clinical trials and approval that any other drug would require.

Not all companies follow these regulations and you do see products that imply that they change the way the skin functions. It’s a blurry line, and a lot of these products get a pass. Not because the FDA approves them, but because the regulations arm of the FDA is probably underfunded.