#BeautyRecap: September 4th, 2018

Research and Technology

Protection of glucotoxicity by a tripeptide derivative of α‐melanocyte‐stimulating hormone in human epidermal keratinocytes
BJD

Skin type differences in solar simulated radiation ‐induced oxidative stress
BJD

Are bacteria transplants the future of eczema therapy?
JAMA

Correlates of positive parental attitudes toward indoor tanning
JAAD

Improving stratum corneum cell cohesion and skin appearance through an advanced ultramild lamellar cleanser comprising dual lipids with triglycerides and glyceryl monooleate
JAAD

Combined treatment of striae using calcium hydroxylapatite, ascorbic acid delivered by microneedling, and microfocused ultrasound
JAAD

Effectiveness of a nature-based sensitive skin regimen (NBSSR) compared with a synthetic dermatologist-recommended control regimen (CR) in subjects with clinically diagnosed sensitive skin
JAAD

Differential facial esthetic treatment considerations for African-American, Asian, and Hispanic skin color populations
JAAD

Stigmatizing attitudes toward persons with psoriasis among laypersons and medical students
JAAD

Characteristic features of neck skin aging in Chinese women
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Two‐phase delivery using a horse oil and adenosine‐loaded dissolving microneedle patch for skin barrier restoration, moisturization, and wrinkle improvement
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Effects of four soaps on skin trans‐epidermal water loss and erythema index
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

A comprehensive in vivo study of Caucasian facial skin parameters on 442 women
Archives of Dermatological Research

Capacitive imaging for skin characterizations and solvent penetration measurements
Cosmetics

Vaccinating against Acne: Benefits and potential pitfalls
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oil
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

#BeautyRecap: August 29th, 2018

Research and Technology

Topical trifarotene: a new retinoid
BJD

Tanning addiction: conceptualization, assessment and correlates
BJD

Multiethnic comparison of facial skin aging
JAAD

Scalp photodamage in balding men: An observational study combining a novel clinical scoring method with estimation of individual sun exposure history and risk factors
JAAD

Aspirin use and the risk of malignant melanoma
JAAD

Superior even skin tone and antiaging benefit of combination of 4-hexyl resorcinol and niacinamide
JAAD

Sensitive skin compatibility of cleansing wipes
JAAD

Vitamin C and its derivatives suppress melanogenesis through acidification in melanocytes
JID

Air pollution, autophagy and skin aging
JID

The effects of a natural derived fragrance on skin conditions via controlling the autonomic nerve system
JID

Repeated exposure to hard water and surfactant impairs epidermal barrier development in vitro
JID

An aqueous extract of Deschampsia antarctica (EDA) exerts clear protective effects on human skin cell against dioxins treatments
JID

Effect of palmitoyl-RGD on the expression of dermal-epidermal junction component in HaCaT
JID

Anti-aging effect of EGF-DOTAP complex on human skin
JID

MMP genes and oxidative stress play a role in polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon-induced skin-damage
JID

Lantibiotics from human skin commensal bacteria defend against multiple Gram-positive bacterial skin pathogens
JID

Assessment of a newly developed environmental aggressor protection serum (LV-D)
JID

Topical application of a new blend of antioxidants reduces oxidative stress and induces mitochondrial activity in 3D cell culture skin model
JID

Noninvasive imaging of UV-induced oxidative stress in human skin using ultra-weak photon emission
JID

Protection and repair of skin damage from environmental aggressor: UV radiation
JID

In-vitro and in-vivo evaluation of skin lightening efficacy of cytidine
JID

Skin care and rejuvenation by cosmeceutical facial mask
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

The role of systemic treatments for skin lightening
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Facial microfiber tissue with plant extracts: A new cosmetic concept shows whitening efficacy in Asian volunteers
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Therapeutic effects of bee venom on experimental atopic dermatitis
Molecular Medicine Reports

Paperview: Evaluation of the protection of a broad-spectrum SPF50+ sunscreen against DNA damage

Cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) are a form of DNA damage that is caused by UV exposure. CPDs interfere with base pairing during DNA replication – which can lead to mutations and cancer.

UVB radiation is directly absorbed by DNA. The energy causes changes in the bonding of pyrimidine structures found in DNA leading to CPDs and pyrimidine-pyrimidone (6-4) photoproducts.

UVA on the other hand is poorly absorbed by DNA, but was also found to cause CPD formation in human skin. CPDs were found to remain longer in the skin when there was UVA exposure, leading to speculation that UVA may also suppress a repair mechanism.

Our cells do have DNA repair capabilities, where damaged DNA is excised and replaced – but these processes can be overwhelmed by an accumulation of damage.

Experiments have measured the amount of CPD formation in human skin when exposed to UVB. One study found that CPDs were formed even when there was no visible sunburn (0.5 sunburn dose). They also found CPDs in both the epidermis and dermis and these levels were elevated for about 10 days as the skin sloughed off.

These two images from the paper show (A) skin that was not exposed to UVB and (B) skin that was exposed to UVB. The brown staining of the cells indicates presence of CPDs.

The amount of CPDs found in both the epidermis and dermis increased as UVB exposure increased.

A recent experiment performed by Pierre Fabre (manufacturers of Avène) looked at the effect sunscreen had on the  formation of CPDs in human skin after UV exposure.

14 volunteers applied a sunscreen to their forearm and were exposed to UVB and UVA on skin protected by the sunscreen and also on unprotected skin. The area covered in sunscreen received 15 times the dose of UV to cause sunburn, whereas the unprotected skin received 2 times the dose.

After this exposure, their skin was blistered by vacuum and the contents of the blister were examined for CPDs using two different methods: immunostaining and spectrometry (HPLC-MS).

They found that the unprotected skin after exposure to UV had an elevated ratio of CPDs to normal DNA bases (90 CPD to 106 DNA bases). In comparison, the skin protected with the sunscreen had an amount of CPDs similar to unexposed skin and statistically significantly less than the unprotected skin (P < 0.001) – even though the area received more UV exposure. The CPD to normal DNA base ratio was not reported for the sunscreen protected and unexposed skin.

The sunscreen was not named, but it is SPF 50+, broad spectrum, and contained; Tinosorb M and S, Iscotrizinol, Avobenzone, and the antioxidant bis-ethylhexyl-hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate.

Preventing the formation of CPDs from reducing UV exposure is the most well-researched option, but there are other newer methods that are emerging – some of which are already available on the market.

Photolyase is a DNA repair enzyme that can be activated by the absorption of a photon and transfer an electron to the CPD, this can separate the CPD back into two normal pyrimidine bases – with the right timing. In humans, the photolyase enzyme no longer works, but there is some evidence that topical application of photolyase may reduce the formation of CPDs. An experiment where photolyase encapsulated in liposomes combined with light exposure was applied to human skin reduced the formation of CPDs by 40%-45% after exposure to UVB.

You can watch a lecture given by Aziz Sanzar about photolyase and DNA repair below. He won the Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 2015 for his work along with his colleagues Tomas Lindahl and Paul Modrich.

S.K. Katiyar, M.S. Matsui, H. Mukhtar, Kinetics of UV light–induced cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers in human skin in vivo: An immunohistochemical analysis of both epidermis and dermis, Photochemistry and Photobiology (2002), DOI: 10.1562/0031-8655(2000)0720788KOULIC2.0.CO2
J. Gwendal, T. Douki, J. Le Digabel, et al, Evaluation of the protection of a broad-spectrum SPF50+ sunscreen against DNA damage, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2018), DOI: 10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.570

#BeautyRecap: August 22nd, 2018

Research and Technology

Evaluation of the protection of a broad-spectrum SPF50+ sunscreen against DNA damage
JAAD

Comparison of histologic features of photodamaged skin and melanoma-in-situ
JAAD

Skin cancer prevention messages on Facebook: Likes, shares, and comments
JAAD

Isotretinoin therapy: A retrospective cohort analysis of completion rates and factors associated with nonadherence
JAAD

Assessing the safety of superficial chemical peels in darker skin: A retrospective study
JAAD

Evaluation in real life of an adapted information impact for effective photoprotection: An example with patients with actinic keratosis
JAAD

Impact of surfactant-phase chemistry on skin mildness: Lamellar surfactants provide significant mildness benefits compared with conventional micellar surfactants
JAAD

In vivo efficacy of a cosmetic skin care product containing carob extract
JAAD

Efficacy and tolerability in skin chronophotoaging of a glycolic, retinoids, and vitamin E cream: A prospective assessor-blinded study
JAAD

Transdermal effectiveness of a lipid-based antimicrobial emulsion
JAAD

Self-reported patient motivations for seeking cosmetic procedures
JAMA Dermatology

Atrophic scar formation in patients with acne involves long‐acting immune responses with plasma cells and alteration of sebaceous glands
BJD

Truth and myths in sunscreen labeling
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Structural changes of hair shaft after application of chemical hair straighteners: Clinical and histopathological study
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Quality of life before and after cosmetic procedures on the face: A cross‐sectional study in a public service
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Comparison of therapeutic effects of conventional and liposomal form of 4% topical hydroquinone in patients with melasma
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

A severe chronic outdoor urban pollution alters some facial aging signs in Chinese women. A tale of two cities
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Zinc‐containing compounds for personal care applications
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Mapping, in vivo, the uniformity of two skin properties alongside the human face by a 3D virtual approach
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Combining microneedling with other minimally invasive procedures for facial rejuvenation: a split ‐face comparative study
International Journal of Dermatology

The effects of a natural derived fragrance on skin conditions via controlling the autonomic nerve system
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Association between diet and seborrheic dermatitis: a cross-sectional study
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Syntheses and physicochemical investigations of optically active ceramide NDS
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

A pilot study to evaluate the effects of topically applied cosmetic creams on epidermal responses
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology

Caffeic acid-layered double hydroxide hybrid: A new raw material for cosmetic applications
Cosmetics

The use of plants in skin-care products, cosmetics and fragrances: Past and present
Cosmetics

Microneedling with biologicals
Facial Plastic Surgery Clinics

Stem cells in dermatology and anti-aging care of the skin
Facial Plastic Surgery Clinics

Toxicity of silver ions, metallic silver, and silver nanoparticle materials after in vivo dermal and mucosal surface exposure: A review
Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology

#BeautyRecap: August 14th, 2018

Research and Technology

Pilot evaluation of safety, efficacy, and tolerability of a new topical formulation for facial hyperpigmentation, combining ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and crosslinked resilient hyaluronic acid
JAAD

The effect of topical sunscreen plus antioxidant against the visible light biologic effects
JAAD

Safety and efficacy of microfocused ultrasound with visualization for the correction of moderate-to-severe atrophic acne scars
JAAD

Comparison of Er:YAG laser, short pulse-duration pulsed dye laser, and long pulse-duration pulsed dye laser in treating sebaceous hyperplasia
JAAD

Oral Polypodium leucotomos extract and its impact on visible light–induced pigmentation
JAAD

A facewash containing specific plant-derived monoterpenes reduced Propionibacterium acnes burden and improved acne symptoms
JAAD

Sweat and hair: Online interventions for health in African-American women
JAAD

Stem cell–conditioned media as a potential antiaging technology in skin care
JAAD

Understanding important skin aging parameters related to ethnicity: A comprehensive study
JAAD

Tolerance of a low-level blue and red light therapy acne mask in acne patients with sensitive skin
JAAD

The effect of socioeconomic status on risk of stage IV melanoma
JAAD

Children sustain high levels of skin DNA photodamage, with a modest increase of serum 25‐hydroxyvitamin D3, after a summer holiday in Northern Europe
BJD

Acne: A side effect of masculinizing hormonal therapy in transgender patients
BJD

Gut microbiota alterations in moderate to severe acne vulgaris patients
The Journal of Dermatology

Evaluation of a brief dermatologist-delivered intervention vs usual care on sun protection behavior
JAMA Dermatology

Analysis of the Twitter “Don’t Fry Day” campaign
JAMA Dermatology

Dietary recommendations for adults with psoriasis or psoriatic arthritis from the medical board of the National Psoriasis Foundation
JAMA Dermatology

Indoor tanning and the risk of developing non-cutaneous cancers: a systematic review and meta-analysis
Cancer Causes & Control

Caffeine delivery in porcine skin: a confocal Raman study
Archives of Dermatological Research

Crocin, a natural molecule with potentially beneficial effects against skin ageing

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Preliminary randomized controlled trial of antiaging effects of L-ascorbic acid applied in combination with no-needle and microneedle mesotherapy
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Evaluation of therapeutic efficacy and safety of tranexamic acid local infiltration in combination with topical 4% hydroquinone cream compared to topical 4% hydroquinone cream alone in patients with melasma: A split-face study
Dermatology Research and Practice

Characterization of the human ridged and non-ridged skin: a comprehensive histological, histochemical and immunohistochemical analysis
Histochemistry and Cell Biology

Effects on skin of Stichopus japonicus viscera extracts detected with saponin including Holothurin A: Down-regulation of Melanin Synthesis and Up-regulation of Neocollagenesis Mediated by ERK signaling pathway
Journal of Ethnopharmacology

Patch tests should include chemicals used in false nail products, say dermatologists
BMJ News

#BeautyRecap: August 7th, 2018

Research and Technology

The effect of milk consumption on acne: a meta‐analysis of observational studies
JEADV

A single center, randomized, double-blinded, multiple-exposure evaluation of SPF 50+ and SPF 100+ sunscreens for prevention of erythema under actual use conditions
JAAD

Reflectance confocal microscopy and image analysis to evaluate the efficacy of a topical facial serum with 20% vitamin C in improving signs of aging
JAAD

Properties of sunscreen influence its application
JAAD

Motivations to use, and to stop use of, tanning beds among sexual-minority men: A qualitative study
JAAD

Effect of adding a diet with index and low glycemic load for 12 weeks in the treatment of moderate acne: Randomized clinical trial
JAAD

A retinoid composition that improves skin aging attributes without irritation
JAAD

Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models
JAAD

A comprehensive facial skin brightening regimen uses a multimechanistic approach to delivering pigment-evening benefits in an ethnically diverse population
JAAD

Analysis of gut microbiome in patients with acne vulgaris
JAAD

An observational study to evaluate a novel facial masque in improving the tolerability of common esthetic procedures
JAAD

Antiglycation effect of unique topical facial cream containing carnosine and alteromonas ferment extract in epidermis and dermis of human skin explants
JAAD

An effective yet gentle foaming facial cleanser specifically designed for redness-prone skin
JAAD

A qualitative study on the attitudes, behaviors, and beliefs of urban adult Filipinos on sunlight exposure
JAAD

Synergistic effects of long-wavelength ultraviolet A1 and visible light on pigmentation and erythema
JAAD

Using Google search data for “sunburn” as a surrogate for sunburn incidence in the United States
JAAD

An international comparison of Google searches for sunscreen, sunburn, skin cancer, and melanoma: Current trends and public health implications
JAAD

Training hairdressers to screen for skin cancer of the scalp and neck
JAAD

The impact of education on the attitude and usage of sunscreen by middle school age children
JAAD

Skin hydration comparison of five prescribed emollients
JAAD

Sensitive skin in France: Updated epidemiologic data
JAAD

Topical treatments without hydroquinone as an option in the treatment of melasma: A case study
JAAD

A pilot study of skin age analysis with the use of ultraviolet photography reveals trends in sun exposure behaviors among adolescents
JAAD

Antioxidant capacity of a comprehensive topical antioxidant system versus a leading antioxidant serum when exposed to oxidative stress in an ex vivo human skin model
JAAD

Understanding important skin aging parameters related to ethnicity: A comprehensive study
JAAD

What is the most satisfactory treatment for skin tightening according to age?
JAAD

Treatment of moderate-to-severe facial acne vulgaris with the use of a solid-state fractional 589/1,319-nm laser
JAAD

Topical DNA repair enzyme cream for the treatment of actinic cheilitis
JAAD

Efficacy of a moisturizer containing a pseudo‐ceramide and a eucalyptus extract for Japanese patients with mild atopic dermatitis in the Summer
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Anti-oxidative effects of 17 β-estradiol and genistein in human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes
Journal of Dermatological Science

Preliminary randomized controlled trial of antiaging effects of l‐ascorbic acid applied in combination with no‐needle and microneedle mesotherapy
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Measuring the frequency of consumer hair combing and magnitude of combing forces on individual hairs in a tress and the implications for product evaluation and claims substantiation
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Use of LC‐MS analysis to elucidate by‐products of niacinamide transformation following in vitro skin permeation studies
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Efficacy and safety of the traditional Japanese medicine Keigairengyoto in the treatment of Acne vulgaris
Dermatology Research & Practice

Effect of Evening Primrose oil on Korean patients With mild atopic dermatitis: A randomized, double-blinded, placebo-controlled clinical study
Annals of Dermatology

Possible role of single stranded DNA Binding Protein 3 on skin hydration by regulating epidermal differentiation
Annals of Dermatology

Three streams for the mechanism of hair graying
Annals of Dermatology

Intradermal injection of Botulinum toxin: A safer treatment modality for forehead wrinkles
Annals of Dermatology