#BeautyRecap: June 26th, 2018

KindofStephen

Research and Technology

Our judgement is influenced by conflict of interest
BJD

Neural control of sweat secretion: a review
BJD

Effect of atopic skin stressors on natural moisturizing factors and cytokines in healthy adult epidermis
BJD

The prevalence of antibody responses against Staphylococcus aureus antigens in patients with atopic dermatitis: a systematic review and meta‐analysis
BJD

Staphylococcus aureus and atopic dermatitis: a complex relationship
BJD

Mycosporine‐like amino acids: does Nature make a better sunscreen?
BJD

Short-term exposure of human sebocytes to 13-cis retinoic acid induces acnegenic changes
BJD

Dietary recommendations for adults with psoriasis or psoriatic arthritis from the medical board of the national psoriasis foundation
JAMA Dermatology

2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine containing hair dye as a less allergenic alternative for para-phenylenediamine allergic individuals
JAAD

No evidence for follicular keratinocyte hyperproliferation in acne lesions as compared to autologous healthy hair follicles
Experimental Dermatology

Skin microneedling for acne scars associated with pigmentation in patients with dark skin
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Platelet rich plasma for the management of hair loss: Better alone or in combination?
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

The evaluation of elasticity after nonablative radiofrequency rejuvenation
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Comparative study between: Carboxytherapy, platelet‐rich plasma, and tripolar radiofrequency, their efficacy and tolerability in striae distensae
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Dual functional bioactive ‐peptide, AIMP1‐derived peptide (AdP), for anti‐aging
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

High volume of polysorbate‐containing (Tween® 80) solutions induces false‐positive results in intradermal test
JEADV

Clindamycin phosphate 1.2%/benzoyl peroxide 3% fixed‐dose combination gel versus topical combination therapy of adapalene 0.1% gel and clindamycin phosphate 1.2% gel in the treatment of acne vulgaris in Japanese patients: A multicenter, randomized, investigator‐blind, parallel‐group study
Japanese Journal of Dermatology

Loricrin confers photoprotective function against UVB in corneocytes
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Inhibition of human tyrosinase requires molecular motifs distinctively different from mushroom tyrosinase
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Laser irradiation of organic tattoo pigments releases carcinogens with 3,3-dichlorobenzidine inducing DNA strand breaks in human skin cells
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Investigating the therapeutic potential of a probiotic in a clinical population with chronic hand dermatitis
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Involvement of the nuclear structural proteins in aging-related responses of human skin to the environmental stress
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Ginsenoside C‐Mx isolated from notoginseng stem‐leaf ginsenosides attenuates ultraviolet b‐mediated photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts
Photochemistry and Photobiology

Ribes nigrum L. Prevents UVB‐mediated photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts: Potential antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity
Photochemistry and Photobiology

Research on hair bleach that causes less hair damage and smells less pungent than ammonium hydroxide
Cosmetics

A cross-sectional study of variations in the biophysical parameters of skin among healthy volunteers
Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology and Leprology

Incorporation of Eugenia dysenterica extract in microemulsions preserves stability, antioxidant effect and provides enhanced cutaneous permeation
Journal of Molecular Liquids

Tazarotene gel with narrow-band UVB phototherapy: a synergistic combination in psoriasis
Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia

Unilateral acne after facial palsy
Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia

Allergic contact dermatitis caused by benzyl salicylate in hair products
Contact Dermatitis

A fibrin biofilm covers blood clots and protects from microbial invasion
Journal of Clinical Investigation

Neonatal phototherapy: A novel therapy to prevent allergic skin disease for at least 5 years
Neonatology

Progress on reconstructed human skin models for allergy research and identifying contact sensitizers
Current Topics in Microbiology and Immunology

#BeautyRecap: June 19th, 2018

KindofStephen

Research and Technology

Knowledge removes discomfort
JAMA

Immunotherapy and skin side effects
JAMA

The ethical issue of “cherry picking” patients
JAAD

Articles of interest to dermatologists from the nondermatologic literature
JAAD

Cross-sectional assessment of ultraviolet radiation–related behaviors among young people after a diagnosis of melanoma or basal cell carcinoma
JAAD

Keeping an eye on atopic dermatitis
JAAD

Dermatoses caused by cultural practices
JAAD

2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine containing hair dye as a less allergenic alternative for para-phenylenediamine allergic individuals
JAAD

Widespread regular sunscreen application deemed not useful in the U.S.A.
British Journal of Dermatology

Deep learning-based, computer-aided classifier developed with a small dataset of clinical images surpasses board-certified dermatologists in skin tumor diagnosis
British Journal of Dermatology

Widespread regular sunscreen application deemed not useful in the U.S.A.: reply from authors
British Journal of Dermatology

Why a randomized melanoma screening trial is not a good idea
British Journal of Dermatology

The global prevalence and correlates of skin bleaching: A meta-analysis and meta-regression analysis
International Journal of Dermatology

Polyamine regulator AMD1 promotes cell migration in epidermal wound healing
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Dermal fibroblast SLC3A2 deficiency leads to premature aging and loss of epithelial homeostasis
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

The in vitro antimicrobial evaluation of commercially essential oils and their combinations against acne
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Colour differences in Caucasian and Oriental women’s faces illuminated by white light‐emitting diode sources
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Human skin‐depigmenting effects of resveratryl triglycolate, a hybrid compound of resveratrol and glycolic acid
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Validation of an in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) method in blinded ring‐testing
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

The treatment of hyaluronic acid aesthetic interventional induced visual loss (AIIVL): A consensus on practical guidance
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

A population ‐based cohort study of atopic eczema among young adult males in Singapore
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Acne treatment with no side effects
New Scientist

Two important novelties in etiopathogenesis and therapy of acne
JEADV

Cutibacterium acnes (Propionibacterium acnes) and acne vulgaris: a brief look at the latest updates
JEADV

Characterisation of Cutibacterium acnes phylotypes in acne and in vivo exploratory evaluation of Myrtacine®
JEADV

Effectiveness and safety of an overnight patch containing Allium cepa extract and Allantoin for post-dermatologic surgery scars
Aesthetic Plastic Surgery

Protective effect of crocin on ultraviolet B ‑induced dermal fibroblast photoaging
Molecular Medicine Reports

Oxybenzone and solar filters in general: The good and the bad
Actas Dermo-Sifiliograficas

Innovative natural ingredients-based multiple emulsions: The effect on human skin moisture, sebum content, pore size and pigmentation
Molecules

Stabilizing the microbiome skin-gut-brain axis with natural plant botanical ingredients in cosmetics
Cosmetics

Involvement of the nuclear structural proteins in aging-related responses of human skin to the environmental stress
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Skin penetration of Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid): Part II

KindofStephen

“Applying 15% Vitamin C for three consecutive days creates a reservoir effect in the skin.”

Firstly, I want to remind you that this study was done on pig skin – not humans. The way that ascorbic acid is stored and metabolized in pig skin may vary from human skin.

Most animals, like pigs, are able to synthesize their own ascorbic acid from glucose, but humans cannot. It’s possible that this data from pigs will be similar to human data, but it’s also very possible that it won’t be. Neither has been proven yet. Presenting an assumption as truth is misleading – but often done in marketing.

I also want to remind you that the way that the ascorbic acid was applied to the skin was not the same way that we apply our skincare. In these experiments, the ascorbic acid solution was applied with a Hill Top Chamber, which occludes the skin, reducing evaporation and theoretically enhancing skin penetration.

For this part of the experiment, Pinnell and his group applied a 15% ascorbic acid solution at pH 3.2 to pig skin for 5 days with a Hill Top Chamber. After the 5th day, application of the ascorbic acid was stopped and ascorbic acid levels in the skin were monitored for an additional 5 days.

After the 3rd day of application of the ascorbic acid serum, the ascorbic acid levels in the skin do appear to reach a peak around 1100 pmol/mg. The deviation around the mean does appear to be reducing with each further day between the 3 subject pigs.

We do need to consider if this theoretical peak amount of ascorbic acid is reached in real-life situations. The living conditions of the pigs in the study were not described, so it’s possible that they were not exposed to natural daylight. It’s understood that UV exposure reduces the amount of ascorbic acid in the skin. UV increases the production of free radicals in the skin, and ascorbic acid is part of the natural antioxidants in the skin which help neutralize these free radicals.

In an experiment using human skin models, it was found that exposure to 16.9 joules/cm² (About 12 minimal erythemal dose equivalent) of UV reduced ascorbic acid levels in the skin model by almost ⅓. This was a higher amount of UV exposure the experimenters expected, they were also unable to detect dehydroascorbic acid in the skin. The study does have some issues which “may be explained by the high levels of ascorbate present in the [tissue] medium…added by the manufacturer to increase collagen synthesis”.

“Vitamin C remains in the skin for 3-4 days and doesn’t wash out”

This marketing claim may be due to some confusion of the term “washout”. In drug experiments a “washout period” refers to the period of time when treatment is stopped, it does not necessarily mean that the skin is washed out.

After applying the 15% ascorbic acid solution to the pig skin, they discontinued application and monitored ascorbic acid levels in the skin. Unfortunately, the methodology in this portion of the experiment isn’t explicitly described. It is unclear, for example, if the pig’s skin was washed each day. The washing procedure is described as “…at the end of the experiment, the formulation was washed vigorously from the skin with water.”

Because most of us use surfactant based cleansers to wash our skin, this data may not be as applicable as the pig’s skin was washed with only water. However, the pig’s skin was removed of stratum corneum before ascorbic acid measurement and the lower layers of skin are likely less affected by the washing and surfactant based-cleanser.

Based on this data, the half-life (the amount of time it takes for the detected ascorbic acid levels to drop by half) was estimated at around 4 days. But as mentioned above, it’s unclear what the living conditions of the pigs were and whether or not they were exposed to sunlight which reduces antioxidant levels in the skin.

Can Vitamin C derivatives increase levels of Vitamin C in skin?

The last portion of the Pinnell experiment looked at whether or not the topical application of Vitamin C derivatives could increase levels of Vitamin C as ascorbic acid in pig skin.

For 24 hours, solutions of dehydroascorbic acid, 10% ascorbyl-6-palmitate, 12% magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and 15% ascorbic acid were applied to pig skin. Compared to control, only the 15% ascorbic acid solution created a statistically significant increase in ascorbic acid levels in the skin.

For the derivatives, there was no statistically significant difference between the application of the derivative and control (no application of derivatives or Vitamin C) – which implicates that, at least for pig skin, these specific derivatives do not convert to Vitamin C.

For the solutions of dehydroascorbic acid, pig skin levels of ascorbic acid were 7.51 ± 3.34 pmol/mg for 20 mM dehydroascorbic acid and 8.70 ± 2.13 pmol/mg for 1 M dehydroascorbic acid. Where no dehydroascorbic acid was applied levels of ascorbic acid were 9.24 ± 3.55 pmol/mg.

In conclusion…

It surprises me how influential this one study on ascorbic acid applied to pig skin has become in terms of marketing language for brands.

Even later studies with Dr. Pinnell as an author leave out that the data are collected from pig skin, “Following topical application, once the skin is saturated with L-ascorbic acid, it remains with a half-life of about 4 d (Pinnell et al, 2001).”

While this experiment is some of the best data we have in terms of ascorbic acid penetration based on formulation, the key point to remember is that human skin cannot be assumed to behave the same as pig skin.

So if you see a claim similar to “15% Vitamin C at pH 3.5 is the most effective concentration”, please imagine me beside you whispering “…for pigs”.

Edit: An error was made in the original version published, pigs can synthesize Vitamin C from glucose, but humans can not. Guinea pigs also cannot synthesize their own Vitamin C.

Edit: An error was made in the original version published, pmmol was corrected to pmol.

Source: Pinnell, S. R., Yang, H. , Omar, M. , Riviere, N. M., DeBuys, H. V., Walker, L. C., Wang, Y. and Levine, M. (2001), Topical L‐Ascorbic Acid: Percutaneous Absorption Studies. Dermatologic Surgery, 27: 137-142. DOI: 10.1046/j.1524-4725.2001.00264.x

Podda, M., Traber, M.G., Weber, C., Yan, L., Packer, L. (1998), UV-Irradiation Depletes Antioxidants and Causes Oxidative Damage in a Model of Human Skin, Free Radical Biology and Medicine, 24: 55-65. DOI: 10.1016/S0891-5849(97)00142-1

#BeautyRecap: June 12th, 2018

KindofStephen

Research and Technology

Tretinoin (0.05% cream vs. 5% peel) for photoaging and field cancerization of the forearms: randomized, evaluator‐blinded, clinical trial
JEADV

pH in nature, humans and skin
Journal of Dermatology

Platelet rich plasma for photodamaged skin: A pilot study
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Cutaneous acceptability of a moisturizing cream in subjects with sensitive skin
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Ionizing radiation, but not ultraviolet radiation, induces mitotic catastrophe in mouse epidermal keratinocytes with aberrant cell cycle checkpoints
Experimental Dermatology

Mechanical spectroscopy and imaging of skin components in vivo: Assignment of the observed moduli
Skin Research & Technology

Validation of GPSkin Barrier for assessing epidermal permeability barrier function and stratum corneum hydration in humans
Skin Research & Technology

Photoallergic contact dermatitis to sunscreens containing oxybenzone in La Plata, Argentina
Actas Dermo-Sifiliograficas

Clinical and dermoscopic evaluation of combined (salicylic acid 20% and azelaic acid 20%) versus trichloroacetic acid 25% chemical peel in acne: a RCT
Journal of Dermatological Treatment

Schisandra chinensis protects the skin from global pollution by inflammatory and redox balance pathway modulations: An in vitro study
Cosmetics

Is maintenance treatment in adult acne important? Benefits from maintenance therapy with adapalene, and low doses of alpha and beta hydroxy acids
Journal of Dermatological Treatment

Platelet rich plasma with microneedling and trichloroacetic acid peel for treatment of striae distensae
JAAD

Single-center, double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled, study of the efficacy and safety of a cream formulation for improving facial wrinkles and skin quality
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Who is accountable when patients do not achieve successful treatment for their acne?
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

The efficacy and safety of azelaic acid 15% foam in the treatment of facial acne vulgaris
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Clinical experience with once-daily Dapsone gel, 7.5% monotherapy in patients with acne vulgaris
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

The effect of an anti-inflammatory botanical cleanser/night mask combination on facial redness reduction
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology

Antiaging effects of a novel facial serum containing L-ascorbic acid, proteoglycans, and proteoglycan-stimulating tripeptide: Ex vivo skin explant studies and in vivo clinical studies in women
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Chain dynamics of human dermis by Thermostimulated currents: A tool for new markers of aging
Skin Research & Technology

Effects of atopic dermatitis and gender on sebum lipid mediator and fatty acid profiles
PLEFA

Risk of sun‐induced skin cancers in patients with alopecia areata, alopecia totalis and alopecia universalis
JEADV

The effects of season and weather on healthcare utilization among patients with atopic dermatitis
JEADV

Body image, personality traits, and quality of life in botulinum toxin a and dermal filler patients
Aesthetic Plastic Surgery

From mice to men: An evolutionary conserved breakdown of the epidermal calcium gradient and its impact on the cornified envelope
Cosmetics

Mild hyperbaric oxygen activates the proliferation of epidermal basal cells in aged mice
The Journal of Dermatology

Indian irrational skin creams and steroid‐modified dermatophytosis – an unholy nexus and alarming situation
JEADV

#BeautyRecap: June 5th, 2018

KindofStephen

Research and Technology

Determining the clinical relevance of positive patch testing to gold in evaluation of contact dermatitis
The Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology: In Practice

Do sunscreen prevent recurrent herpes labialis in summer?
Journal of Dermatological Treatment

Adolescents’ perspectives on atopic dermatitis treatment: Experiences, preferences, and beliefs
JAMA Dermatology

Prevalence of skin cancer examination among indoor tanning bed users
JAMA Dermatology

The spectrum and sequelae of acne in Black South Africans seen in tertiary institutions
Skin Appendage Disorders

Antiaging effects of a novel facial serum containing L-ascorbic acid, proteoglycans, and proteoglycan-stimulating tripeptide: ex vivo skin explant studies and in vivo clinical studies in women
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Differential roles of RAD18 and CHK2 in genome maintenance and skin carcinogenesis following UV exposure
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Assessment of the effect of 3% Diclofenac Sodium on photodamaged skin by means of reflectance confocal microscopy
Acta Dermato-Venereologica

The beneficial effect of Korean Red Ginseng extract on atopic dermatitis patients: An 8 weeks open, noncomparative clinical study.

Deeper wrinkle formation and less melanin production in aged Korean women with B blood type
Annals of Dermatology

Airborne allergic contact dermatitis caused by neem oil
Actas Dermo-Sifiliograficas

Investigating the therapeutic potential of a probiotic in a clinical population with chronic hand dermatitis
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Vitamin D levels in acne vulgaris patients treated with oral isotretinoin
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

#BeautyRecap: May 29th, 2018

KindofStephen

Products and Reviews

A look at the Kat Von D Lip Liner Vault
Elle.com

Manny MUA reveals his new beauty line Lunar Beauty
Glamour.com

Spectrum launches brush collaboration with Disney’s “The Little Mermaid”
Allure.com

Boscia launches a cactus water moisturizer
Allure.com

Beautyblender launches in new blue shade
TeenVogue.com

15 women of colour-owned beauty brands
Elle.com

Nikita Dragun becomes the face of new Morphe lipstick collection
Elle.com

Peach and Lily launches its own skincare range
Allure.com

Saks Fifth Avenue reveals new New York beauty floor
VanityFair.com

Skincare and Beauty

Sephora launching makeup classes for the transgender community
Elle.com

Restylane Lyft approved by the US FDA for hand rejuvenation
Allure.com

US FDA issues warning about ‘sunscreen pills’
Glamour.com

“Does natural skincare work?” by Cotton Codinha for Elle
Elle.com

US Supreme Court will not hear hair locs workplace lawsuit
TeenVogue.com

Dermatologists recommend their favourite sunburn remedies
Vogue.com

Industry

Debra Perelman to be named first female CEO of Revlon
Allure.com

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley launching her own beauty brand Rose Inc.
Allure.com

Target launches online ‘Beauty Studio’
Glamour.com

Research and Technology

Rethinking the prescription of biotin for dermatologic conditions
Dermatologic Therapy

Beneficial effects of antioxidant furfuryl palmitate in non-pharmacologic treatments (Prescription emollient devices, PEDs) For atopic dermatitis and related skin disorders
Dermatology and Therapy

Hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy: Non-erythemal in vivo testing of sun protection factor
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology

The impact of acne and facial post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation on quality of life and self-esteem of newly admitted Nigerian undergraduates
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Japanese Dermatological Association guidelines: Guidelines for the treatment of acne vulgaris
The Journal of Dermatology

Towards a reliable, non‐invasive melanin assessment for pigmented skin
Skin Research and Technology

Prediction of skin anti‐aging clinical benefits of an association of ingredients from marine and maritime origins: Ex vivo evaluation using a label‐free quantitative proteomic and customized data processing approach
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

A single center, prospective, randomized, sham-controlled, double-blinded, split-face trial using microinjections of transparent hyaluronic acid gel for cheek rejuvenation
Dermatologic Surgery

Commentary on a single center, prospective, randomized, sham-controlled, double-blinded, split-face trial using microinjections of transparent hyaluronic acid gel for cheek rejuvenation
Dermatologic Surgery

Importance of dermal absorption of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons derived from barbecue fumes
Environmental Science and Technology