#BeautyRecap: March 6th, 2018

Products and Reviews

A look at elf’s Line and Define eye tape
Revelist.com

Kat Von D Beauty launches 10 new Everlasting Liquid Lipstick shades
Allure.com

Glossier launches Lidstar, a metallic eye shadow
Allure.com

Kiehl’s launching Glow Formula Skin Hydrator
Allure.com

Sunday Riley to launch a foundation
Allure.com

Swatches of the Nars highlighter powder
Allure.com

Marc Jacobs Beauty to expand its Coconut collection in April
Allure.com

Ever Skin debuts a makeup line
Allure.com

A preview of the Nars Orgasm Afterglow lip balm
Allure.com

A look at Tarte’s Be a Mermaid and Make Waves eyeshadow palette
TeenVogue.com

Bliss is relaunching its entire range
Allure.com, TeenVogue.com

A look at Makeup Revolution’s foundation stick
TeenVogue.com, Elle.com

Rebels Refinery’s skull lip balm is now available at Target
Allure.com

A look at the INC.redible Jelly Highlighters
TeenVogue.com

Retail and Trends

South Korean brand Mamonde is now available at Ulta
Allure.com

How California’s Proposition 65 may affect aloe products
Allure.com

Storybook Cosmetics now available at Ulta
TeenVogue.com

Ulta and its executives lied to public and SEC over used beauty products, per new lawsuit
TheFashionLaw.com

A government report finds Amazon and Walmart are selling counterfeit products
NewBeauty.com

Is artificial intelligence in marketing overhyped?
Forbes.com

Can traditional beauty companies compete With disruptors dominating Instagram?
AdWeek.com

Skincare and Beauty

Kadeeja Khan calls out L’Oréal after being dropped from a campaign due to “skin issues”
Allure.com

Dr. Pimple Popper’s new TLC show This Is Zit
Allure.com

Isotretinoin may be cited as a factor in a murder trial
TimesCall.com

Should you throw away your lipstick after being sick?
GlobalNews.ca

“How to layer your skincare products” by Elizabeth Seigel at Allure
Allure.com

Advice on choosing a sunscreen for sensitive skin by Chloe Hall at Elle
Elle.com

Sonequa Martin-Green shares her morning beauty routine
Elle.com

AndreasChoice’s Andrea Brooks shares her beauty routine
TeenVogue.com

Kat Von D talks about her Beauty Pro program for makeup artists
Allure.com

Kim Kardashian says she regrets getting the “vampire facial”
WMagazine.com

Lucy Hale shares her skincare routine
Allure.com

Asia and World

Hong Kong cosmetics retailer Sa Sa to close all stores in Taiwan
SCMP.com

Chinese influencer Candy Lian draws 4 million online viewers for Tokyo show
JapanTimes.co.jp

JD enhances makeup brand sales with AR/VR ‘Styling Station’ that lets shoppers try before they buy
TameBay.com

Alibaba’s Tmall platform hosts beauty awards and summit in Shanghai
WWD.com

Aekyung Industry to launch IPO for parent company
KoreaTimes.co.kr

Cosmetics and hair products manufacturer, Godrej, will spend Sh50 million in research aimed at developing new products for the mass market
BusinessDailyAfrica.com

Outreach and Sustainability

L’Oreal to Use Kentucky landfill as a renewable energy source
USNews.com

L’Oreal USA announces an initiative for its operations facilities to become carbon neutral by 2019
LOrealUSA.com

Personal Care Products Council asks beauty editors to help set the record straight on science and safety of cosmetics
CosmeticsDesign.com

How packaging recyclability can shift sustainability expectations for startup beauty brands
PackagingDigest.com

Corporate

Algenist names Rose Fernandez CEO
WWD.com

Estée Lauder Companies appoints Philippe Pinatel to MAC Cosmetics leadership team
ELCompanies.com

Research and Innovation

Tanning addiction: Conceptualisation, assessment, and correlates
British Journal of Dermatology

L-carnitine mitigates UVA-induced skin tissue injury in rats through downregulation of oxidative stress, p38/c-Fos signaling, and the proinflammatory cytokines
Chemico Biological Interactions

Cathepsin D contributes to the accumulation of advanced glycation end products during photoaging
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

The role of the physician in patient perceptions of barriers to primary adherence with acne medications
JAMA

Tanning and sun-protection behaviors among sexual minority men
JAMA

Synergistic effects of long-wavelength ultraviolet A1 and visible light on pigmentation and erythema
British Journal of Dermatology

Human skin in vivo has a higher skin barrier function than porcine skin ex vivo – comprehensive Raman microscopic study of the stratum corneum
Journal of Biophotonics

Endocannabinoid tone regulates human sebocyte biology
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Physiological and molecular effects of in vivo and ex vivo mild skin barrier disruption
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology

Assessing the safety of superficial chemical peels in darker skin: A retrospective study
JAAD

Skin cancer prevention messages on Facebook: Likes, shares, and comments
JAAD

A comparative review of the isotretinoin pregnancy risk management programs across four continents
International Journal of Dermatology

Hyperpigmentation and higher incidence of cutaneous malignancies in moderate-high PCB and dioxin exposed individuals
Environmental Research

Plants and natural products for the treatment of skin hyperpigmentation – A review
Planta Medica

Liposome-encapsulated baicalein suppressed lipogenesis and extracellular matrix formation in Hs68 human dermal fibroblasts
Frontiers in Pharmacology

Prevalence of contact allergens in personal care products for babies and children
Dermatitis

Formulation and evaluation of polyherbal anti-acne gel
Research Journal of Topical and Cosmetic Sciences

A single center clinical trial to evaluate the efficacy of a tripeptide/hexapeptide antiaging regimen
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Silk fibroin produced by transgenic silkworms overexpressing the Arg‐Gly‐Asp motif accelerates cutaneous wound healing in mice
Journal of Biomedical Materials Research

US FDA warns that biotin supplements can interfere with lab tests

Are you taking biotin for your skin and nails? Be aware that biotin supplements can interfere with many lab tests. Some of the currently known interactions are tests measuring amounts of troponin, which are often used to diagnose heart attacks. Biotin supplements may also interfere with tests measuring hormone levels involving the thyroid.

The FDA is warning and helping to raise awareness of this side-effect,

“Biotin in blood or other samples taken from patients who are ingesting high levels of biotin in dietary supplements can cause clinically significant incorrect lab test results. The FDA has seen an increase in the number of reported adverse events, including one death, related to biotin interference with lab tests.”

Their recommendation for consumers is to talk to their healthcare provider about biotin supplements and for healthcare professionals to report adverse events to the FDA through the MedWatch report system.

I know supplements seem like an effective way to boost your beauty, because who doesn’t like the concept of beauty from within? But be aware that supplement claims are not regulated by the US FDA, nor do they require testing or approval.

“Federal law does not require dietary supplements to be proven safe to FDA’s satisfaction before they are marketed”

“For most claims made in the labeling of dietary supplements, the law does not require the manufacturer or seller to prove to FDA’s satisfaction that the claim is accurate or truthful before it appears on the product”

The US supplement industry is huge, poorly regulated, generally poorly backed by research, and has large profit margins. It’s easy to see why it can be an attractive market to enter, but don’t trust your health to anecdotal evidence.

#BeautyRecap: February 27th, 2018

Products and Reviews

Fenty Beauty launches Dirty Thirty limited-edition highlighter for Rihanna’s birthday
Allure.com, Elle.com

Urban Decay launches Pink Backtalk palette
TeenVogue.com

A review of the Differin Daily Deep Cleanser
Glamour.com

MAC Hint of Color Lip Oil now available in the US
TeenVogue.com

A look at the MAC and Nicopanda collaboration
Refinery29.com

Kylie Cosmetics announces the Eye of the Storm eyeshadow palette
Elle.com

Charlotte Tilbury talks about her new Hollywood Flawless Filter
Allure.com

Retail and Trends

Former Ulta Beauty employee says she felt pressured to resell used products
CBSNews.com

Inside Soko Glam: New York’s South Korean beauty brand pop-up
PaperMag.com

“Blue Mercury is Macy’s secret weapon”
Bloomberg.com

Revlon announces partnership to produce fragrances for AllSaints
PRNewswire.com

Weleda announces first brand campaign
PRNewswire.com

Coty focuses on AI with growth accelerator competition
TheDrum.com

ColourPop now available at Ulta
BizJournals.com

Skincare and Beauty

A look at the PiQo4 laser for treating hyperpigmentation on most skintones
Allure.com

“What being a makeup artist in the porn industry is like”
Allure.com

Covergirl features Amy Deanna in their new campaign
Elle.com

Jackie Aina shares her beauty routine
TeenVogue.com

Johnny Weir shows off his favourite South Korean brand skincare items
Elle.com

Makeup artist Antonio Bermudez shares his skin routine for acne
Allure.com

Tati Westbrook announces makeup line
Bustle.com

Singer Lorde calls out annoying things people say to those with acne
Allure.com

An overview of Merkel cell carcinoma
Allure.com

Rachel Nussbaum on her experience with “slugging” or using Vaseline
Glamour.com

Model Amy Pejkovic and her experience with blue light for acne therapy
Allure.com

An interview with Patrick Starrr on gaining confidence
Rappler.com

Women with vitiligo share their experiences about representation
Glamour.com

11 cleansing oils recommended by Glamour
Glamour.com

10 face moisturizers recommended by Elle
Elle.com

Glamour’s selection of South Korean brand beauty products available at the drugstore
Glamour.com

Asia and World

An economic look at why South Korean men are wearing makeup
CBC.ca

South Korean beauty products remain a hot seller in China, even as missile row simmers
SCMP.com

South Korean cosmetics brands lay foundation in Europe
StraitsTimes.com

Japan’s cosmetics exports hit fifth straight annual record
Nikkei.com

Corporate

Glossier raises additional $52 million USD in funding
VentureBeat.com

Research and Innovation

The “Dermatologist Recommended” label: Is it meaningful?
JAAD

Isotretinoin therapy: A retrospective cohort analysis of completion rates and factors associated with non-adherence
JAAD

Effect of platelet-rich plasma on scalp hair diameter
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Antioxidant action and protective and reparative effects of lentinan on oxidative damage in HaCaT cells
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Clinical evidence for washing and cleansers in acne vulgaris: A systematic review
Journal of Dermatological Treatment

The effect of skin surface topography and skin colouration cues on perception of male facial age, health, and attractiveness
International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Extracellular matrix regulation of fibroblast function: redefining our perspective on skin aging
Journal of Cell Communication and Signaling

Human skin in vivo has a higher skin barrier function than porcine skin ex vivo – comprehensive Raman microscopic study of the stratum corneum
Journal of Biophotonics

Randomized split‐face, controlled comparison of treatment with 1565‐nm nonablative fractional laser for enlarged facial pores
British Journal of Dermatology

Tanning addiction: Conceptualisation, assessment, and correlates
British Journal of Dermatology

Alternative test models for skin aging research
Experimental Dermatology

Bamboo salt suppresses skin inflammation in mice with 2, 4-dinitrofluorobenzene-induced atopic dermatitis
Chinese Journal of Natural Medicines

Exposure of human melanocytes to UVB twice and subsequent incubation leads to cellular senescence and senescence-associated pigmentation through the prolonged p53 expression
Journal of Dermatological Science

Effects of pregnancy on skin properties: A biomechanical approach
Skin Research and Technology

Topical glucose induces Claudin-1 and Filaggrin expression in a mouse model of atopic dermatitis and in keratinocyte culture, exerting anti-inflammatory effects by repairing skin barrier function
Acta Dermato-Venereologica

Decrease in diversity of Propionibacterium acnes phylotypes in patients with severe acne on the back
Acta Dermato-Venereologica

Antidepressants have anti-inflammatory effects that may be relevant to dermatology: A systematic review
Acta Dermato-Venereologica

Debunking the myth of wool allergy: Reviewing the evidence for immune and non-immune cutaneous reactions
Acta Dermato-Venereologica

Combined fractional treatment of acne scars involving non-ablative 1,550-nm erbium-glass laser and micro-needling radiofrequency: A 16-week prospective, randomized split-face study
Acta Dermato-Venereologica

Efficacy of a daily protective moisturizer with high UVB and UVA photoprotection in decreasing ultraviolet damage: Evaluation by reflectance confocal microscopy
Acta Dermato-Venereologica

Cathepsin D contributes to the accumulation of advanced glycation end products during photoaging
Journal of Dermatological Science

Impact of hand eczema on quality of life: metropolitan versus non ‐metropolitan areas
Contact Dermatitis

Dermal anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects of Compritol ATO-based Resveratrol colloidal carriers prepared using mixed surfactants
International Journal of Pharmaceutics

Topical delivery of L-theanine ameliorates TPA-induced acute skin inflammation via downregulating endothelial PECAM-1 and neutrophil infiltration and activation
Chemico Biological Interactions

Visualizing how a daily sunscreen can protect the skin from UV damage

Optical coherence tomography and reflectance confocal microscopy can be used to non-invasively to visualize deep into the skin. Using these techniques we can actually see changes in the structure of the skin and its cells.

This group of researchers with funding from La Roche Posay used the imaging techniques to compare the effect of UVB exposure on skin protected with a high SPF and UVAPF sunscreen and skin that wasn’t protected.

What they found was that doses of UVB that caused long-lasting erythema (redness) caused morphological changes in the skin. Changes observed were spongiosis (abnormal accumulation of fluid), microvesicles, sunburn cells, and blood vessel dilation. None of these were observed in skin that was protected by the sunscreen.

A minimal erythemal dose or MED is the amount of UV energy that causes long-lasting redness in the skin. Just 1 MED was enough to cause morphological changes and 2 caused significantly more. This also relates to SPF. An SPF of 2 would provide enough protection to protect an average population against 2 MEDs.

If reducing your risk of developing skin cancers and preventing photoaging are a goal of yours – this is a great reminder and justification to wear your sunscreen daily!

Antonio Gomes-Neto, Paula Aguilera, Leonor Prieto, Sophie Seité, Dominique Moyal, Cristina Carrera, Josep Malvehy, Susana Puig, Efficacy of a Daily Protective Moisturizer with High UVB and UVA Photoprotection in Decreasing Ultraviolet Damage: Evaluation by Reflectance Confocal Microscopy, Acta Dermato-Venereologica (2018), DOI: 10.2340/00015555-2736

#BeautyRecap: February 13th, 2018

Products and Reviews

A look at the e.l.f. Cosmetics and Christian Siriano collaboration
TheGloss.com

A look at Almay’s Make Them Jelly Hi-Lite
Allure.com

A review of the VegaBrow serum
Glamour.com

Dove launches DermaSeries line for very dry skin
PRNewswire.com

A look at Mileo’s range of face oils
Vogue.com

A look at the Becca Cosmetics x Sananas Parisian Lights Highlighter
Allure.com

A look at Urban Decay’s Naked Heat mini-palette
Glamour.com

A look at ColourPop’s Moonlight Magic collection
HypeBae.com

Obagi Medical launches SusanObagiMD range of skincare
PRNewswire.com

Retail and Trends

“Trendy skin care company Deciem’s drama feels a whole lot like the tech world”
Buzzfeed.com

Kat Von D responds to controversy surrounding her Basket Case eyeliner ads
TeenVogue.com

Jung Saem Mool to be available in Bergdorfs
WWD.com – Paywall

Skincare and Beauty

Lindsay Lohan is launching a beauty brand
WMagazine.com

UFC star Conor McGregor set for trademark battle with make-up giant MAC
IrishMirror.ie

17 men share their beauty routines with Elle
Elle.com

Allure recommends 12 moisturizers with SPF
Allure.com

Vanity Fair takes a look at South Korean-made beauty products
VanityFair.com

Asia and World

South Korean convenience stores branching out into beauty and pet supplies
KoreaBizwire.com

South Korean beauty stores are experimenting with a hands-off sales approach
KoreaJoongangDaily.joins.com

S. Korea’s Emerson Pacific ventures into cosmetics territory with Greek plant resin mastic
PulseNews.co.kr

“In Seoul, residents frown on ads for cosmetic procedures”
NPR.org

Outreach

UFC-Que Choisir has filed a court action against five major cosmetics manufacturers for failing to disclose nanoparticles
ChemicalWatch.com

Lawsuit claims Ulta sold used makeup
TheFashionLaw.com

Growing trend of microblading raises questions over state regulations
WNCT.com

Michigan congressman introduces legislation to ban asbestos in children’s makeup
WXYZ.com

Corporate

L’Oreal ready to buy Nestle stake in cosmetics leader
Reuters.com

Estee Lauder posts Q2 results: The transcript
SeekingAlpha.com

Avon names Avon names Unilever’s Jan Zijderveld as CEO after a long search
CNBC.com

Allergan to acquire University of Sydney spinoff Elastagen
Sydney.edu.au

P&G acquires New Zealand skincare brand Snowberry
NZHerald.co.nz

Marc Anthony Cosmetics acquires Canadian beauty brand Cake
Newswire.ca

Research and Innovation

Letter to the Editor: Oral retinoids and depression
British Journal of Dermatology

Risk of depression among patients with acne in the U.K.: a population ‐based cohort study
British Journal of Dermatology

Hyaluronan metabolism enhanced during epidermal differentiation is suppressed by Vitamin C
British Journal of Dermatology

A time-series study of the effect of air pollution on outpatient visits for acne vulgaris in Beijing
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology

Use of SkinFibrometer to measure skin elasticity and its correlation with Cutometer and DUB Skinscanner
Skin Research and Technology

Age-related differences in the functional properties of lips compared with skin
Skin Research and Technology

Plasma exeresis for active acne vulgaris: Clinical and in vivo microscopic documentation of treatment efficacy by means of reflectance confocal microscopy
Skin Research and Technology

Glycan distribution and density in native skin’s stratum corneum
Skin Research and Technology

Low-molecular weight keratins with anti-skin aging activity produced by anaerobic digestion of poultry feathers with Fervidobacterium islandicum AW-1
Journal of Biotechnology

A technique for more precise distinction between catagen and telogen human hair follicles ex-vivo
Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology

Rethinking biotin therapy for hair, nail, and skin disorders
Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology

The staining of clothing by sunscreens: a pilot study
Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology

Sunscreen use in schools: a content analysis of U.S. state laws
Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology

Yeasts from skin colonization are able to cross the acellular dermal matrix
Microbial Pathogenesis

Decolonization of Staphylococcus aureus in patients with atopic dermatitis: a reason for increasing resistance to antibiotics?
Advances in Dermatology and Allergology

The use of stem cells in aesthetic dermatology and plastic surgery procedures. A compact review of experimental and clinical applications
Advances in Dermatology and Allergology

One week of exposure to sunlight induces progerin expression in human skin
Advances in Dermatology and Allergology

The expression and function of galectins in skin physiology and pathology
Experimental Dermatology

Noninvasive quantitative analysis of ceramide in skin of healthy Chinese population
Skin Research and Technology

Antiaging efficacy of melatonin-based day and night creams: a randomized, split-face, assessor-blinded proof-of-concept trial
Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

Novel combination for the treatment of acne differentiated according to gender: a new step towards personalized treatment
Giornale Italiano di Dermatologia e Venereologia

Alternative activation of hedgehog pathway induced by ultraviolet B radiation: preliminary study
Clinical And Experimental Dermatology

Anti‐photoaging effect of Prunus yeonesis blossom extract via inhibition of MAPK/AP‐1 and regulation of the TGF‐βI/Smad and Nrf2/ARE signaling pathways
Photochemistry and Photobiology

Effects of repeated UVA irradiation on human skin fibroblasts embedded in 3D tense collagen matrix
Photochemistry and Photobiology

Epidermal lipid composition, barrier integrity and eczematous inflammation are associated with skin microbiome configuration
Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology

Nutraceuticals: A review
Dermatology and Therapy

Melatonin: A cutaneous perspective on its production, metabolism, and functions
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Inhibition of human tyrosinase requires molecular motifs distinctively different from mushroom tyrosinase
Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Cosmetic functional ingredients from botanical sources for antI-pollution skincare products
Cosmetics

A new tool to test active ingredient using lactic acid in vitro, a help to understand cellular mechanism involved in stinging test
Experimental Dermatology

What’s causing sunscreen to stain clothing?

Yellow stains on your clothing? Your sunscreen might be a culprit!

A group of researchers tested 32 commercial sunscreens for their ability to stain white and black 100% cotton.

Of the tested sunscreens; Alba Botanica Hawaiian SPF 50 Spray, L’Oreal Invisible Protect SPF 50, Solbar Thirty, and Aveeno Protect and Hydrate SPF 50 were among the most staining sunscreens.

The least staining sunscreens were; Cerave Baby, Solbar Zinc 38, Cerave Face SPF50, and Babyganics Mineral Based SPF 50

Using statistical analysis to group the sunscreens by sunscreen ingredients they created four distinct groups. Based on these groupings they tested 8 sunscreen ingredients; Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octinoxate, Octisalate, Octocrylene, Oxybenzone, Titanium Dioxide, and Zinc Oxide.

For white fabric; Avobenzone was a strong yellow stainer and so was Oxybenzone to a lesser extent. Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide both left faint white stains.

For dark blue fabric; Avobenzone and Oxybenzone both left faint white staining, but Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide left strong white stains.

The sunscreen ingredients were applied directly to the fabric, whereas in real-life it’s likely transferred to skin by friction and smearing throughout the day

A sunscreen that stains is by no means a reflection of its ability to protect your skin from UV. If reducing extrinsic photoaging is a goal, it’s important to use a sunscreen frequently. Often people are discouraged from using sunscreens because of the texture, scent, and in some cases staining of their clothes.

If staining is an issue I’ve had good luck with soaking it with 99% isopropyl alcohol and then a soak in sodium percarbonate (Oxiclean) or hydrogen peroxide.

Cornell also has a great stain guide for a myriad of stains.

Ginnetti M, Buhnerkempe M, Wilson M, The staining of clothing by
sunscreens: a pilot study, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2018), doi: 10.1016/j.jaad.2018.02.022