L’Oréal recalls Ideal Moisture – Dry and Sensitive Day Cream

L’Oréal recalls Ideal Moisture – Dry and Sensitive Day Cream

#BeautyRecap: March 8th, 2016

Retail

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Cocoa Swatches app shows what makeup will look like on dark skin
Cosmpolitan.co.uk, MadameNoire.com

Galderma launches qilib a new line to prevent hair loss
BusinessWire.com

Lancome announces collaboration with fashion designer Sonia Rykiel
PRNewswire.com

A preview of the Charlotte Olympia x MAC collaboration
Popsugar.co.uk

Paramore’s Hayley Williams to launch new hair colour line
Popsugar.com

Lancome taps Isabella Rossellini as new face
PRNewsWire.com

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#BeautyRecap: March 1st, 2016

Retail

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Bioderma launches new water-based spray sunscreen
MarieClaire.fr – French

Estee Lauder opens male grooming salons, called The Grooming Station, through its Aveda brand
ThisisMoney.co.uk

Kat Von D beauty launches eye primers for more than one shade of skin
Seventeen.com

Nivea launches new men’s product, it says MEN on the tin
Ladn.eu – French

Zendaya, Tinashe, and Kevin McHale become new faces of X Out, Proactiv maker Guthy + Renker’s latest brand
PRNewswire.com

Sonia Rykiel collaborates with Lancome on new collection
Vogue.co.uk

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Playing around with textures!

I think this could make either a great leave-on exfoliating acid gel, or perhaps a jelly-like cleanser?

By changing the kind of ion used to set the gel you can get different textures. Here I used a divalent ion, which will make this gel heat stable!

The gels formed are pH stable (yay acidity), and I think with high enough concentration could be used to create surfactant/emulsifier free emulsions!

A vegan lanolin alternative made from plant oils

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Today I wanted to share with you these plant oil based vegan alternatives to lanolin.

Lanolin is great at forming an emollient film on the skin, and reducing water-loss through evaporation from the skin. It’s very sticky which means it often remains on the skin longer than petrolatum and oils. Lanolin also has the interesting ability to absorb water, up to 200% in some cases.

Many people are allergic to lanolin and others, like the wonderful @phyrra, choose to use animal and cruelty-free products, but it’s difficult to get the same effect with natural alternatives. Lanolin is made up wax esters, lanolin alcohols, and lanolin acids which give it its unique properties.

I’ve come across other ingredients that are marketed as lanolin alternatives, but they’re often hydrogenated oils or plant butters. While they often have the melting point and waxiness of lanolin, they lack the stickiness and water absorption.

These have a similar stickiness and effect on the skin as lanolin, absorb around 200% water, and they’re made with components found in plant oils!

Plant oils (and many animal fats) are triglycerides. They are made up of three fatty acids attached to a glycerol molecule.

Below is the structure of tristearin, a triglyceride found in nutmeg! The blue part of the molecule is the glycerol. The long chains are fatty acids, 3 stearic acids are shown.

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The company uses a patented method using radio frequency heating and catalysts to rearrange the molecules and attach extra glycerol molecules to the fatty acids. The results are biodegradable, safe, and the whole process adheres to many of the tenants of green chemistry. They’re also ECOCERT and COSMOS approved.

Below is glyceryl stearate, which is 1 glycerol molecule (in blue) attached to 1 stearic acid (in red).

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The samples are organized from thinnest to thickest from left to right, and these changes are made by attaching differing amounts of glycerol to the fatty acids, or rearranging them in different structures.

As an example, in the molecule below, 3 glycerol molecules have been chained together to form triglyceryl stearate

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These are great for balms, adding extra emollience to moisturizers, and even for keeping pigments from lipsticks on your lips! The company has also done human trials on these that have shown they have a long-term effect on moisture levels in the skin – similar to lanolin!

#BeautyRecap: February 23nd, 2016

Retail

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Lip Smacker launches Starburst flavoured lip balms
PRNewswire.com

NYX opens store in New Jersey, its first on the east coast of the US
PRNewswire.com

Cetaphil launches a men’s line, calls it “Cetaphil Men”
PRNewswire.com

Luxury retailer Saks Fifth Avenue opens in Toronto
CBC.ca

Russian weapons manufacturer to make anti-radiation shampoo and cosmetics
RBTH.com

L’Oreal launching a natural haircare line under the Garnier brand in the US
WWD.com – Paywall

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