pH of skin care products found in US drugstores

I’ve been reading about the effects that skin pH has on our skin – mainly what happens when we increase the skin’s pH. Historically skin pH wasn’t seen as a foundational component to skin health, but more recent research seems to be indicating that it, in fact, is.

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The enzymes kallikrein 5 and 7, β-glucocerebrosidase and sphingomyelinase are involved in sloughing of the skin, as well as creating skin lipids. They function best at certain pHs, and the pH gradient from close to pH 7 in the deeper layers of the skin to pH 4-6 in the upper layers of the skin modulates their function throughout the skin.

Bacteria found on our skin grow at different rates depending on the pH. Changing the pH of the skin can lead to the proliferation of certain species of bacteria. P. acnes bacteria and S. areus grow faster at a closer to neutral pH. Skin’s naturally produced antibiotic, dermicidin, is less effective at a closer to neutral pH as well.

An experiment where they lowered the pH of the skin found an enhancement of skin barrier function, measured by water loss through evaporation from the skin.

Low pH products may be especially important for people who have impaired skin function such as atopic dermatitis and acne.

This isn’t to say that pH is the only factor that produces benefits from a product, but it is one that should be considered.  Some active ingredients may not be compatible with low pH. Niacinamide isn’t stable when stored in low pH solutions, and uncoated organic sunscreens like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide clump in acidic solutions reducing UV protection.

It can be difficult to accurately find out the pH of products at home, but I did come across this paper which examined the pH of various skin creams available in the US, and I thought it might be useful to share!

How they measured pHA pea sized amount of moisturizer was placed on a piece of wax paper then measured with a Hanna HI 99191 probe at 25 °C. The measurements were taken 5 times and then averaged.

Acid Mantle®
4.71 ± 0.01

Aquanil® Lotion
5.19 ± 0.04

Aquanil® HC
6.35 ± 0.12

Aquaphor® Ointment
6.82 ± 0.20

Aveeno® Daily Moisturizing Lotion
5.62 ± 0.01

Aveeno® Advanced Care Moisturizing Cream
6.35 ± 0.03

Aveeno® Positively Radiant Daily Moisturizer
5.54 ± 0.04

Aveeno® Skin Relief Moisturizing Lotion
4.88 ± 0.02

Aveeno® Skin Relief Moisturizing Lotion With Menthol
5.46 ± 0.02

Cerave® Moisturizing Cream
5.49 ± 0.02

Cerave® Moisturizing Lotion
5.68 ± 0.02

CeraVe® Facial Moisturizing Lotion PM
5.95 ± 0.01

Cetaphil® Moisturizing Cream
4.71 ± 0.02

Cetaphil® Restoraderm Skin Restoring Moisturizer
5.94 ± 0.02

Cetaphil® Daily Advance Ultrahydrating Lotion
5.65 ± 0.01

Dove® Day Lotion
6.47 ± 0.02

DML® Forte Body Moisturizing Cream
5.94 ± 0.08

DML® Moisturizing Lotion
6.55 ± 0.01

Epiceram®
5.45 ± 0.01

Eucerin® Calming Cream
5.41 ± 0.02

Eucerin® Menthol Itch Relief Lotion
4.81 ± 0.03

Eucerin® Original Dry Skin Therapy Cream
8.01 ± 0.04

Eucerin® Original Dry Skin Therapy Lotion
5.97 ± 0.03

Eucerin® Intensive Repair Body Cream
5.98 ± 0.03

Eucerin® Intensive Repair Body Lotion
8.19 ± 0.03

Neosalus® Cream
7.40 ± 0.10

Theraplex® Emollient For Severely Dry Skin
4.62 ± 0.18

Vanicream® Moisturizing Skin Cream
4.27 ± 0.05

Vanicream® Light Moisturizing Lotion
3.73 ± 0.03

Vaseline® Intensive Rescue Skin Protectant Body Lotion
4.30 ± 0.02

#BeautyRecap: February 16th, 2016

Retail

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Kylie Jenner and Sinful Colors team up to launch nail polish line
Metro.co.uk

Guess launches moisturizing jean line
DigitalTrends.com

Whole Foods to offer tattoos? CEO shares ideas to attract millennial shoppers
Bloomberg.com

NARS opens boutique in London
WWD.com

Zac Posen and MAC collaboration launches February 25th
Forbes.com, Bustle.com

Benefit to launch entire line based around their Hoola bronzer
Popsugar.com

Read more

#BeautyRecap: February 9th, 2016

Retail

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Kiehl’s and Derek Zoolander team up for the “Derek Zoolander Center for People Who Don’t Age Good”
411Mania.com

Kylie Jenner’s Lip Kit sells out in under 30 minutes, line expected to expand into full cosmetics line
WWD.com, Bustle.com

L’Oreal Professional taps into the denim hair trend
Cosmopolitan.com

Estee Lauder launches special Year of the Fire Monkey limited-edition versions of its products
EsteeLauder.com

Marc Jacobs Beauty names lipstick shade after Princess Charlotte
WWD.com

Lancome debuts a cafe in Dubai
SavoirFlair.com

Read more

How’d you get your job in the cosmetic industry? With Dan at Estée Lauder

One of the most frequent questions I get asked is, “How do I get a job in the cosmetic industry?”. I thought the best way to answer this was to interview people within the industry and let them share their background, experience, and how they got where they are.

My first interview is with Dan, a process engineer at Estée Lauder.

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Formulations created at a small scale, such as a beaker, can often encounter problems when scaled up to production size.

A process engineer’s role is to help foresee these problems and troubleshoot them – ensuring that the formula looks and functions the same at any production level.

What was your education background?

Chemical engineering

Did you want to work in the cosmetic industry?

I majored in chemical engineering because I like chemistry and I wanted a job in the consumer goods industry (specifically food). It did not cross my mind that I could be a chemical engineer in the cosmetic industry initially. But I was exposed to chemical engineering opportunities in the cosmetic industry through my college’s alumni network and was immediately hooked on the idea.

How long have you been employed in the cosmetic industry?

7 months to date

What is your role at Estée Lauder?

Process engineer

What did you do yesterday at work?

Refreshed my knowledge of our up-scale methods in a class taught by a Vice President of the Engineering Department. Worked with a formulating chemist to discuss the next phase of up-scaling a formula for market launch.

What sort of projects do you work on?

My focus is scaling up skin-care products like moisturizers, toners, masks, cremes, SPFs, acne treatments, etc.

Do you see yourself moving around in the company? What sort of position would you like to be in, if not this one?

DEFINITELY. I chose to work for a large company for the option to move around and explore different departments. I see myself learning the business and joining the marketing team.

Besides your own job, what other interesting jobs do you see within the company?

Marketing, supply chain, innovation, and corporate strategy

Biggest perk of working at

Estée Lauder?

Industry exposure, technical and business knowledge training, and future opportunity

What would you suggest to someone who’s currently an undergrad who wants to work in the cosmetic industry?

Be flexible in your job search. Unfortunately, HR functions very slowly. Patience is key. Keep in touch with all your career contacts. I got my job because a neighbor struck up a random conversation with my father and happened to know someone who worked at Estée. Any connection, no matter how random, can land you that dream job.