#BeautyRecap: September 7th, 2015

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Culture

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Crayola issues statement warning against using crayons and pencils as lipsticks or eyeliners. Analyst sees potential for Crayola branded makeup.

Jessica Alba and The Honest Company respond to $5 million class action lawsuit. The suit claims their products were misleading labeled as natural.

Reshma Quereshi shares beauty tutorials aimed to raise awareness and to help end acid attacks against women. Reshma was attacked by her sister’s estranged husband only a year ago.

Rihanna says that “[she] would love to do a makeup line” at the launch of her new fragrance ‘RiRi’. The artist continues, “…It’s a part of my life, it’s a part of my career, it’s part of every video, every visual, every red carpet, so it’s something I’ve gotten to know quite well. I ask a lot of questions and I spend a lot of time in the makeup stores.”

LUSH gets backlash from social media and Battersea MP Jane Ellison after launching an incense inspired by the 2011 London Riots. The product Lavender Hill Mob is described as “calming and meditative lavender and sandalwood incense to aid quiet contemplation amidst the violence of the world.”

Indiana University researchers use Instagram to predict the next big fashion model. The study also found that height increased success, whereas larger dress, hip and shoe sizes didn’t.

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Jessica Alba and the Honest Company Respond to $5 Million Class Action Lawsuit

KindofStephen

The class action lawsuit seeks damages for what plaintiff Jonathan Rubin claims was deceptive and misleading marketing. The lawsuit provides evidence that The Honest Company marketed themselves at a premium based on claims that their ingredients were natural and effective.

imageReblogged from ori345love

The lawsuit also references previous complaints of their sunscreen product being ineffective.

The lawsuit goes on to point out ingredients that the plaintiff identifies as synthetic.

Labelling a cosmetic or skin care product as “natural” isn’t regulated the same way that “organic” is. Cocamidopropyl betaine is often made with coconut oil, but it involves processing with dimethylaminopropylamine, a synthetic chemical.

Read the full class action lawsuit (PDF)

Jessica Alba’s and The Honest Company’s response to the lawsuit is below:

Seven years ago, when I was pregnant with my first daughter, I was frustrated by the lack of healthy and safe product options for me and my new family. In fact, prior to launching The Honest Company, I began lobbying Congress to require that ingredients used in everyday products are tested for safety prior to entry into the marketplace.

I started The Honest Company to develop safe and effective products not just for my children, but for families everywhere. I am very proud that we have built this company into an industry leader focused on using natural ingredients and developing products that people love.

We believe that consumers deserve to know what’s in their products — whether it’s diapers for their children, cleaning products for their families or beauty products for themselves. Our formulations are made with integrity and strict standards of safety, and we label each ingredient that goes into every product – not because we have to, but because it’s the right thing to do.

The allegations against us are baseless and without merit. We strongly stand behind our products and the responsibility we have to our consumers. We are steadfast in our commitment to transparency and openness.

I know my children, Honor and Haven, are growing up in a safer home because of our products.

From Pret-A-Reporter

If the lawsuit is successful this may have an impact on how the “natural” label is used on cosmetic and personal care products.

The Honest Company is set to launch Honest Beauty this fall, a collection of 17 skin care products and 66 make up products.

Crayola Issues Warning Against Making DIY Lipsticks and Eyeliners with Its Products

KindofStephen

Here’s the FDA’s list of approved pigments for cosmetic use. They’re further limited by area of application, such as the eyes and lips.

Unlike cosmetics and personal care products, art supplies aren’t required to list their composition. Crayola crayons are made with paraffin wax, however we as consumers aren’t privy to which pigments are used to colour their products.

Here’s a discussion

of what industry trade group

Art & Creative Materials Institute’s

(ACMI) non-toxic label is and isn’t.

The [ACMI] also argues that while some institute-approved products may contain heavy metals, they are present in small enough quantities to be considered nontoxic. “If it’s not going to hurt you, then it can be labelled nontoxic,” said Laurie Doyle, associate director of the institute. “The [state health department] does have a difference of opinion on that.”

Do note that this information appears to be from the late 1980s, so their policy may have changed. Unfortunately, it has been difficult for me to find updated policies and discussion.

The latest I could find from the ACMI was them questioning whether there was enough data to label BPA as a reproductive toxicant.

Hi again – big fan of yours here! While I understand you’re super busy, I’d love to see you post more. Even small, miniscule tidbits (maybe you should get on that twitter bandwagon). Lots of q’s for ya!

KindofStephen

…your thoughts on the benefits of astaxanthin (taken orally or applied topically) for hyperpigmentation?, which sunscreens do you use (do you use any Canadian brands?), steps non-cosmetic-chemists should take to be more informed, and what your skin care routine is like. Sorry for the barrage!

Hi battleofhe-s, thanks again for the questions!

I’m going to try to post more often, at least weekly. I’ve also setup a Twitter account at @kindofstephen.

There’s only a few (maybe only one) studies that have shown astaxanthin is beneficial for hyperpigmentation, and only topically. It’s believed that astaxanthin helps reduce some processes induced in the skin by UVB exposure. However, most pigmentation of the skin is caused by UVA exposure. I’d still prefer a person use a well formulated sunscreen that offers similar UVA and UVB protection. Orally, carotenes like astaxanthin and beta carotene can tint the skin yellow/orange which may provide a masking effect. They can also provide a UVB protective effect when taken orally, but again does not replace a sunscreen. Astaxanthin is quite expensive, and beta carotene functions similarly (as does lycopene) and can be found in supplements and foods like sweet potato, carrots, dark leafy vegetables. An insane amount can be found in a Southeast Asian fruit called gac, but I’ve never been able to find it 🙁

I actually use a Canadian sunscreen! From L’Oreal’s brand Ombrelle. Ombrelle was originally independent, but was acquired by L’Oreal at some point in the 90s – I believe. Anyways, Ombrelle uses many next-generation sunscreens like Mexoryl XL and Mexoryl SX. I use the Ombrelle Kids Water Resistant Lotion SPF 60. Ombrelle Complete Lotion SPF 60 is also a great one. The sunscreens are thick and aren’t great for humid days due to the high glycerin content, but I’ve learned to manage. I do have a Bioderma Photoderm MAX Spray SPF 50+ that I will spray into my hands then apply to my face for days where I really don’t want to look shiny at all. I’m not sure if it’s available locally in Canada though, I ordered mine online (or have friends bring it back from Europe).

Look for high levels of drometrizole trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL) and terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (Mexoryl SX) in L’Oreal brands (as they have it patented) and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Bemotrizinol, Tinosorb S, or Escalol S) and bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (Bisoctrizole or Tinosorb M).

Brands available in Canada that have next-generation sunscreens include Bioderma, Avene, La Roche Posay, and Vichy.

Ombrelle is still the most economical one I’ve found and you can often find $3 CAD coupons online.

I think the best thing a non-chemist can do to help understand all the information available now is to take a MOOC. A first year undergraduate course in organic chemistry will help you understand the reactions, structures, and nomenclature that can often be daunting or confusing. The University of Berkeley also has a great anatomy course that covers the integumentary system available on iTunes (Lectures 43 and 44).

I currently use a micellar water (diluted low-foam surfactant solution) to cleanse my face, and an oil based (oil and surfactant solution) to cleanse my body. Then sunscreen. I also use prescription retinoids, but rotate that with 10% vitamin C and 4% niacinamide – as I am prone to hyperpigmentation.

I’m also constantly testing out new ingredients and formulations, which often means that my skin can be irritated. This is why I try to keep my regular routine quite simple!