When Algenist launched the Genius Liquid Collagen with “vegan collagen” my first thought was, “What? Only animals have collagen!”
Well, you’re looking at a vial of collagen that has been produced by yeast. Collagen is the main structural protein in animals, there are over 28 types of collagen. Type I collagen makes up about 90% of the collagen found in humans. Collagen gives our skin its strength, flexibility, structure, and durability. Collagen is a triple helix, made of three coils of amino acids wrapped around each other. This coiled structure allows collagen to be stretched without breaking. Check out an earlier post I wrote about collagen for more information. Plants and microbes don’t normally make collagen, but turns out they can! With some help from science, of course. Vegan collagen is often produced from modified yeast and bacteria, scientists have been doing this for decades. Collagen can also be produced by modified plants, like the tobacco plant. In one method, 4 genes that encode for the building blocks of collagen were added into a yeast’s genetic structure. The human genes were expressed in the modified yeast and they started producing the building blocks of human collagen type I. These building blocks were collected and treated with pepsin (a digestive enzyme), which assembled them into collagen and broke down any material that didn’t form properly. Why make microbe or plant-based collagen? It’s often purer and it doesn’t rely on animals. Though it occurs rarely, animal collagen can cause foreign body or allergic reactions. Animal sources of collagen are fish, pigs, and cows. Collagen is useful as a moisturizer for the skin, but also has medical applications. Collagen is used as a material for cosmetic filler, as carriers in drug delivery, as sutures, and as scaffolds for tissue engineering. Collagen can also be modified and used for neuron regeneration, blood vessel repair, bone regeneration, wound healing, and more!
M Nokelainen, High‐level production of human type I collagen in the yeast Pichia pastoris, Yeast, 2001. DOI: 10.1002/yea.730
Unripe peach (Prunus persica) extract ameliorates damage from UV irradiation and improved collagen XVIII expression in 3D skin model Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
Evaluation of long‐term efficacy of finasteride in Korean men with androgenetic alopecia using the basic and specific classification system Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
Microneedling by dermapen and glycolic acid peel for the treatment of acne scars: Comparative study Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
Improvements in the perception of facial attractiveness following surgical aesthetic treatment; study based on online before and after photos Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
Dermoscopic evaluation of melanocytic nevi changes after photoepilation techniques: a prospective study JEADV
The efficacy of anti-VEGF antibody-modified liposomes loaded with paeonol in the prevention and treatment of hypertrophic scars Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy
Alpha-pinene attenuates UVA-induced photoaging through inhibition of matrix metalloproteinases expression in mouse skin Life Sciences
Blac Chyna’s endorsement of skin lightening cream Whitenicious by Dencia receives controversy Allure.com
Blac Chyna responds to skin lightening cream endorsement and says it is “philanthropic” HotNewHipHop.com
How Dolce & Gabbana’s Shanghai show went from spectacle to cancellation WMagazine.com
Woman who suffered brain damage during cosmetic procedure in Juarez, Mexico dies KFDM.com
Makeup artist Nam Vo shares her guide to glowing skin WMagazine.com
Ashley Graham fact-checks makeup tutorials based on her looks Glamour.com
NikkieTutorials shares her guide to Amsterdam Allure.com
A look at Mandy Moore’s wedding makeup Glamour.com
Model and activist Halima Aden’s makeup tips and advice Vogue.com
Model Anok Yai’s makeup tips and advice WMagazine.com
Research and Technology
Topical tazarotene gel, 0.1%, as a novel treatment approach for atrophic postacne scars: A randomized active-controlled clinical trial JAMA Facial Plastic Surgery
A review of smartphone applications for promoting sun protection practices JAAD.org
Seaweeds as source of bioactive substances and skin care therapy – cosmeceuticals, algotheraphy, and thalassotherapy Cosmetics
Dietary supplementation with turmeric polyherbal formulation decreases facial redness: a randomized double-blind controlled pilot study Journal of Integrative Medicine
Effects of a topical lotion containing aminophylline, caffeine, yohimbe, l‐carnitine, and gotu kola on thigh circumference, skinfold thickness, and fat mass in sedentary females Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
SIG‐1273 protects skin against urban air pollution and when formulated in AgeIQ™ Night Cream anti‐aging benefits clinically demonstrated Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
A small dose of botulinum toxin A is effective for treating androgenetic alopecia in Chinese patients Dermatologic Therapy
Association of phenotypic characteristics and UV radiation exposure with risk of melanoma JAMA Dermatology
Assessment of the effect of 3% diclofenac sodium on photodamaged skin by means of reflectance confocal microscopy Acta Dermato-Venereologica
Propionibacterium acnes related anti-inflammation and skin hydration activities of madecassoside, a pentacyclic triterpene saponin from Centella asiatica Bioscience, Biotechnology, and Biochemistry
Arsenic enhances cell death and DNA damage induced by ultraviolet B exposure in mouse epidermal cells through the production of reactive oxygen species Clinical And Experimental Dermatology
Support for the safe use of zinc oxide nanoparticle sunscreens: Lack of skin penetration or cellular toxicity after repeated application in volunteers JID
Realistic exposure study assists risk assessments of ZnO nanoparticle sunscreens and allays safety concerns JID
Efficacy of a repair cream containing Rhealba oat plantlets extracts, L-ALA-L-GLU dipeptide, and hyaluronic acid in wound-healing following dermatological acts: a meta-analysis of >2,000 patients in eight countries corroborated by a dermatopediatric clinical case Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology
Induction of angiogenic and inflammation-associated dermal biomarkers following acute UVB exposure on bio-engineered pigmented dermo-epidermal skin substitutes in vivo Pediatric Surgery International
Impact of water exposure on skin barrier permeability and ultrastructure Contact Dermatitis
Depilatory chemical thioglycolate affects hair cuticle and cortex, degrades epidermal cornified envelopes and induces proliferation and differentiation responses in keratinocytes Experimental Dermatology
Evaluation of the transepidermal penetration of a carnosine complex in gel formulation by 3D skin models Cosmetics
Assessment of antioxidant and cutaneous wound healing effects of Falcaria vulgaris aqueous extract in Wistar male rats Comparative Clinical Pathology
Outside air at a plane’s altitude is very cold and less dense. Cold air can hold less water compared to warmer air. At a plane’s flight height (around 10 km) the outside air can hold about 10% what it can at ground-level.
Outside air is warmed, filtered, and then cycled through the cabin air about 20 times an hour, depending on the plane model. Air inside the cabin is also filtered and recycled. The mix between outside air and recycled inside air is about 50/50.
Below, the solid black line shows the measured relative humidity inside an airplane’s cabin during a flight. You’ll see that about 15 minutes after take-off the relative humidity drops quickly to its low of about 10% – which is maintained until close to landing.
Why can’t they humidify the cabin air?
That does happen! But let’s go over some of the issues with humidifying a cabin.
As warm air cools, we know that the amount of water it can hold drops as well and that water it can’t hold anymore will condense on surfaces. We’ve all experienced this when we see condensation or “sweat” on a cold glass during a hot, humid day.
The outer layers of a plane are much, much colder than the inside of the plane and that change in temperature can cause condensation. That condensed water can be absorbed into the plane’s insulation which adds weight and more fuel costs, cause corrosion of metal parts, and even affect electrical wiring.
OK so, what about these humidified planes?
Newer plane models, like the Airbus A350 and Boeing 787, can be ordered with on-board humidifiers. They work by passing the cabin air over a water-moistened pad, as the water evaporates – it humidifies the air. That’s not all though, to prevent some of the mentioned problems above, the humidifying system is also paired with a drying system. The drying system warms incoming air and passes it through a silica gel – which absorbs excess water and dries the air. This reduces condensation as cabin air passes through to the outer areas of the plane – where water can cause problems.
While the dry air can feel uncomfortable for our skin, it’s not likely to cause long-term problems.
Trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) from the skin does seem to increase because of the low humidity, which can lead to dryer skin – especially on longer flights. One experiment found that TEWL increased from 13.0 ± 2.2 g/m²h at 60% humidity to 20.1 ± 4.9 g/m²h during a simulation of a 6-hour flight.
Applying a moisturizer before or during a flight could be of great help. Whether that’s a sheet mask, mist, lotion, balm, or potion. Or if you’re lazy like me and don’t feel like doing anything, your skin will naturally recover once you’re off the plane and back at a normal humidity.
Based on experiments with crew members, we tend to feel the low humidity the most in our eyes (10.8%), mouth and throat (7.0%), and nose (5.0%). Sinus congestion was also a common complaint, occurring in 29.0% of those surveyed.
Moisturizing eye drops (I like the Systane Ultra drops) can help with the eyes. A light-swipe of petrolatum (Vaseline) or another balm inside the nostrils can help with the nose. As for the mouth and throat, keep some water handy! You don’t need to guzzle gallons though, there’s little evidence that low humidity leads to your body becoming dehydrated. One experiment found that for a 6 hour flight, a 60 kg person would need about 450 ml of extra water.
Source: Giaconia, C., Orioli, A., & Di Gangi, A. Air quality and relative humidity in commercial aircrafts: An experimental investigation on short-haul domestic flights. Building and Environment (2013). DOI: 10.1016/j.buildenv.2013.05.006
Source: Lindgren, T., Norbäck, D., & Wieslander, G. Perception of cabin air quality in airline crew related to air humidification, on intercontinental flights. Indoor Air (2007). DOI: 10.1111/j.1600-0668.2006.00467.x
Hashiguchi, N., Takeda, A., Yasuyama, Y., Chishaki, A., & Tochihara, Y. Effects of 6-h exposure to low relative humidity and low air pressure on body fluid loss and blood viscosity. Indoor Air (2013). DOI: 10.1111/ina.12039
